Welcome to Flash!'s Page!

Home

All about Flash!'s family! | Darkwing's Wing Master aka "Mister Rhythm n'Blues" | In time of disaster... | The History of the GSP | Links to Better Health | Stories to share about pets | Training and more... | What I learned today | Feeding a Biologically Appropriate Diet | In the field | In the show ring | Contact Me
What I learned today

An unusual disease!  Be ware!

After our dog getting tetanus, I read and remember...just in case it happens to us!

 
Previous  |  Next  |  Back to Messages Save Message Text

To: CSDogBookReview@yahoogroups.com
From: "Carol Whitney" <cwhitney@islandnet.com> | This is Spam | Add to Address Book
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 12:25:40 -0800
Subject: [CSDogBookReview] A Dog's Real Needs [soon to be revised]
    

A Dog's Real Needs

Last revised Mon 06 May, 2002 09:42:12
Carol Whitney, Ph.D., Sooke, B.C., Canada / Coherent Dog
Professional Member,
Canadian Association of Professional Pet Dog Trainers

Dogs need to feel safe and secure, and to feel able to
trust their Caretakers and Guides - that's us.  When we
adopt dogs, we become their Caretakers and Guides.  In
effect, we hold our dogs captive, so we are responsible
for meeting the needs they can't themselves meet without
our help.  Here's a list of needs that every dog has (may
be added to by anybody).

We need to meet these needs on a reasonable schedule for
the dog, so that none goes unmet long enough to cause a
problem for the dog, and therefore, for the Caretaker and
Guide as well.

Notice that I put social feedback the very first - without
social feedback, the animal dies inside. For the companion
dog, social feedback is two-way communication between dog
and owner. Notice that means the communication is, in
whatever way, understood by each.

The popular literature now available about dogs and their
behavior that is very helpful includes the works of Jean
Donaldson, especially, her book _The Culture Clash_, and
by Turid Rugaas, whose book and videos on calming signals
and dog-body-language give us the ability to read what our
dogs are telling us. For extra insight into dogs at
various stages of growth and development, I recommend the
book _Dogs_, by Raymond and Lorna Coppinger, 2001.

The dog-needs we need to meet every day include:

1) Social feedback (includes pack (family) membership:
being with owner);
2) A place to be: a den and surrounding home;
3) Water, food, shelter, protection from the elements;
4) Attention to grooming and medical care; touch;
5) At least adequate mental stimulation and rest time;
6) At least adequate physical exercise and rest time.

Additional comments:  Until all a dog's real needs are
met, the dog is in a position where it has to try to meet
them itself. The most essential foundation-training -
training salient to the dog -is that of teaching the dog
that all its real needs will be met, and, of course,
that's done by meeting them, and by cueing the dog so that
it can recognize the process of needs-meeting.

Putting a dog on a fairly orderly schedule, and making
rituals out of the schedule, giving the dog cues about
what human action or verbal cue, in what environment,
indicates, "Now we are going to do this," helps a dog
comprehend that its needs are now about to be met. The
actual meeting of the needs builds a dog's confidence in
the relationship with its humans.

These principles are the essence of what underlies
programs that are variously called "Nothing In Life Is
Free," "No Free Lunch," "Leading The Dance" (by Sue
Ailsby), and similar ones.

Fri, 14 Feb 2003 12:25:35
Carol Whitney, Sooke, B.C., Canada
What to do in an emergency!
Ten Things You Need to Know to Prepare Your Dog for a Disaster
(Taken from "Dogs For Dummies," by Gina Spadafori, Copyright 1996 by
Wiley Publishing)

For pet owners faced with a flood, fire, hurricane, earthquake, or
other crisis, disaster experts are all of one mind on what to do:

Take your pets with you.

While animals are not allowed in disaster-relief shelters, an
increasing number of animal shelters and veterinarians are better
prepared now than ever before to take in animals during an emergency.

In fact, a model program started by the California Veterinary Medical
Association has a veterinarian in place in each county to help
coordinate animal-relief efforts. Other states are starting to see
the light, too, with veterinarians, shelter groups, and specially
trained disaster teams from the Sacramento, Calif., based United
Animal Nations are prepared to do for animals what the Red Cross does
for people.

Why all the changes? A growing realization that animals need help,
too, and that some people choose to put their lives in danger rather
than abandon their pets.

So take your pets. Also take their food, leashes, medicines,
blankets, and carriers if told to evacuate.

You do can do better, still, if you plan ahead. Here are some tips
from disaster-planning experts.

1. Have a Plan

Prepare for all possibilities, including the possibility that you may
be away from home when disaster strikes. Make sure that everyone in
your family - children, too! - is prepared in the event of an
emergency. Make a plan and go over it until everyone knows what to do.

People need to rely on each other during emergencies, and this is
just as true when it comes to your pets. Get to know your neighbors,
and put a plan in place to help each other out. Find out from local
shelters and veterinary organizations what their emergency response
plans are and how you fit into them in case of a disaster.

2. Know What Your Veterinarian's Plans Are

Ask your veterinarian if he has a disaster plan, and how he plans to
fit in with other veterinarians in an emergency. If he has never
thought of it, pushing him a little on the subject won't hurt. If he
has no interest, consider changing vets or exploring back-up care for
your dog from someone who is more tapped in.

3. Maintain Your Pet's Permanent and Temporary ID

Most animals will survive a disaster. But too many will never see
their families again without a way to determine which pet belongs to
which family. That's why pets should always wear a collar and
identification tags. Better still is permanent identification that
can't slip off, such as a tattoo or imbedded microchip.

Keep temporary ID tags at hand, too, to put on your pet if you're
forced to evacuate.(Your pet's permanent ID isn't of much use if you
can't be home to answer the phone.) One of the easiest: Key tags on
which you can jot a current number, slip into a plastic housing, and
then attach to your pet's collar.

4. Keep Vaccinations -- and Records -- Current

Infectious diseases can be spread from dog to dog through
floodwaters, which is why keeping pets' vaccinations up-to-date is
essential. Kennel cough, although not serious, is common in
sheltering situations and also preventable through vaccinations.

Prepare a file with up-to-date medical and vaccination records, your
pets' microchip or tattoo numbers, your veterinarian's phone number
and address, feeding and medication instructions, and recent pictures
of your animals. Trade copies of emergency files with another pet-
loving friend -- it's a good idea for someone else to know about your
pet should anything happen to you.

5. Have Restraints Ready

Even normally obedient dogs can behave rather strangely when stressed
by an emergency. Consequently, you should be prepared to restrain
your pet - for his safety and the safety of others.

Keep leashes and carriers ready for emergencies. Ready means at hand -
- the means to transport your pet shouldn't be something you have to
find and pull from the rafters. Harnesses work better than collars at
keeping panicky pets safe.

Shipping crates are probably the least-thought-of pieces of emergency
equipment for pet owners - but are among the most important. Sturdy
crates keep pets safe and give rescuers more options in housing pets.
They give you more options, too, in the homes of friends or
relatives, or in shelters outside of the area.

Depending on weather conditions, crated pets may also be safely left
overnight in vehicles.

Another item to keep on hand is a muzzle, because frightened and
injured dogs are more likely to bite.

6. Rotate a Supply of Food, Water, and Medications

Keep several days' worth of food and safe drinking water as well as
any necessary medicines packed and ready to go in the event of a
disaster. Rotate your supplies so they do not get stale. If your pet
eats canned food, be sure to keep an extra can opener and spoon
tucked in among the emergency supplies.

7. Keep First Aid Supplies on Hand -- with Directions

Pet-supply stores sell ready-made first aid kits, or you can put your
own together fairly easily. You can find the ingredients of a good
basic kit elsewhere in this book.

Keep a first aid book with your supplies, but give the book a quick
read before you store it. Veterinarian Michelle Bamberger's "Help!
The Quick Guide to First Aid for Your Dog" (Howell) is one that's
well organized and easy to follow.

Pet-Pak, Inc., manufactures animal first-aid kits in five sizes, all
neatly packed in a plastic container (the four largest have handles).
The kit contains the basics for emergency care, along with a pamphlet
on using the supplies. For information, contact the company at P.O.
Box 982, Edison, NJ 08818-0982; (908) 906-9200.

8. Know the Locations of Other Veterinary Hospitals - and Animal
Shelters

Your veterinary hospital may be damaged in the disaster, which is why
having some back-up plans for boarding and care is good. Know where
other veterinary hospitals are, as well as animal shelters and animal-
control facilities in your area.

9. Keep a "Lost Dog" Kit Ready

In case of a disaster, you probably won't be able to get flyers
printed up, so make up some generic ones and keep them with your
emergency supplies. In the biggest type size you can, center the
words: "LOST DOG," along with a clear picture of your dog. Then
below, provide a description of your dog, including any identifying
marks, and a space to add the phone number where you can be reached,
along with any back-up contacts, friends, relatives, neighbors, or
your veterinarian. Print a hundred copies and keep them in a safe
place.

A staple-gun allows you to post your notices; keep one loaded and
with your supplies along with thumbtacks and electrical tape.

If your dog becomes lost, post flyers in your neighborhood and
beyond, and distribute them at veterinary hospitals and shelters.
While relying on the kindness of strangers is nice, offering a reward
makes many strangers just a little bit kinder.

10. Be Prepared to Help Others

You may be lucky to survive a disaster nearly untouched, but others
in your community won't be so fortunate. Contact your local humane
society and veterinary organization now to train as a volunteer so
you can help out in a pinch. Disaster-relief workers do everything
from distributing food to stranded animals to helping reunite pets
with their families - and helping find new homes for those who need
them.

Volunteering in a pinch is not only a good thing to do - it's the
right thing for anyone who cares about animals and people.
I'm adding another dog to my pack, I'm concerned!
Treshell quoted > On page 118 under boldness and getting a new dog when you already have a shy dog... The new dog must be bold, happy and well-adjusted... Just as a shy dog can pick up positive responses to new situations from a bold dog, she can pick up fearful reactions from another shy dog.

Further in this section Deborah has thoughts on size, gender, and age, as well. When we added a second dog to our household (Dot, about 10 months ago) we got a bitch puppy - who has turned out to be pushy and self-confident in ways both wonderful and aggravating (any other BC bitch owners out there? <BG>). While her boldness was a bit overwhelming for Jake (then 1-1/2 yo), we've used her personality to "show" him something / someone isn't so scary. By the same token, as Dot has gone through the typical puppy fear periods, Jake has been able to "show" her that something is no big deal.

Had we brought a second shy, or even a soft, dog into our home, this wouldn't have been possible.

- Leonore & co.
2 boys, 2 dogs, 2 snakes, 1 cat, and counting...
(it's a starter set)
No. California
Suggestions on how to stop submissive peeing!
To: DogRead@yahoogroups.com
From: taobowwow2@aol.com | This is Spam | Add to Address Book
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 01:15:02 EST
Subject: Re: [DogRead] How to catch the shy dog?
    
In a message dated 2/4/03 6:18:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dogs4_psalsedo@yahoo.com writes:


> And how do you stop that submissive peeing???!
>

A few suggestions (there's actually a chapter on this in the book):

First -- be SURE the dog doesn't have a urinary tract infection.  Infections make them lose bladder control, so they are more likely to have an accident when excited. 

If it's not physical:

1.  Don't ever, ever pet the dog on the top of the head.  This is very dominant behavior, and makes the dog feel the need to show she's no threat -- so she pees. 

2.  Plan for it, so it's not a big, emotional thing.  The dog has no control of this right now, so getting upset (even if you don't mean to be upset) just makes things worse.  So, put a rubber mat at the front door.  Have a towel there ready to deal with it.  Don't get excited.

3.  Make arrivals very matter of fact -- not a big deal.  Come in the door, smile gently and say, "Hi Princess."  No petting, no big deal.  Put away your coat, turn on the TV, and then invite her to join you.  Slow and gentle.

4.  Keep building her confidence.  The more confident the dog is, the less likely they are to submissively urinate.

Deborah

Deborah Wood (author of "Help for Your Shy Dog," "Top Dogs: Making It to Westminster," "The Tao of Bow Wow: Understanding and Training Your Dog the Taoist Way" and "The Tao of Meow: Understanding and Training Your Cat the
Taoist Way")




What I learned today to help my dog when visitors come to the door!
Message: 2
   Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:51:18 -0000
   From: "lucyjane_98 <lwacksman@hotmail.com>" <lwacksman@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: how to greet strangers?

Cheryl,
Thanks so much for the tips!  I think we for SURE will try this.  Sydney is super food motivated.  We had heard about the "place" (boundary) command, but weren't sure how to accomplish this along with the door b/c of her adreneline rush!  Maybe we can get a cheapy bathroom mat so it'll be easy for her to distinguish her "spot". :D
Yay, something to work on now!

Thanks,
Lucy

--- In ClickerSolutions@yahoogroups.com, "Cheryl Jarvis
<professorcj@y...>" <professorcj@y...> wrote:
> Hi Lucy -
>
> I think the key with Sydney is to give her *another* job to do rather than guarding the door, and to change her emotional reaction to people coming in the door.  The barking will take care of itself once that's done. I've got a fear aggressive dog too, and we found a great solution to just the problem you've described.
>
> First, a task to replace guarding the door - we allow Brady to bark once or twice when the bell rings to alert us, then she must go to a spot on a rug at a distance from the door and hold a down-stay until we release her. The distance from the door is critical - the physical distance helps reduce the adrenaline rush that comes from feeling threatened, and eliminates the potential for a bite should someone suddenly try to reach for her despite me telling them not to!
>
> How we accomplished this was to keep a jar of her best-ever most-
> favorite stinkiest treats by the designated "down" spot (use a mat or rug so she can clearly distinguish her boundaries for the behavior), and when the doorbell rang and she barked we'd interrupt her by singing out happily "oh boy someone's at the door" and running to that spot (she'd automatically follow if we ran! <g>) and getting out a handful of treats and absolutely *shoveling* treats as the door was opened until it was closed. This takes two people to manage - one has to be handling the dog while the other handles the door.  You might also want to have a leash on her to help you keep her in place
(just step on it and keep it short enough to keep her where you want her)
> so that you can reward her for being there. It also goes faster if you have a third person to do multiple "setups" by ringing the doorbell at various times during the day.
>
> Someone on this list once used the phrase "She can't pump adrenaline if she's pumping saliva" (Laura, possibly?) and I just love that. This is pure classical conditioning - changing her associations with strangers at the door from something scary to something wonderful. 
> In addition, it's giving her a task to do that's appropriate - she's really *not* in charge of guarding the door! - and a down-stay is also a calming task that will help her control her emotional and physical reactions to the excitement.
>
> I've found now that Brady often forgets to even bark once - she's too
> busy hustling to get to her spot so she can get her treats!  Once I didn't hear the bell and just happened to walk through the living room and noticed Brady in her spot looking very eager, so I looked out the door and there was the UPS guy! As she improved, we no longer had to shovel treats - she now gets one great treat after the door is closed, as a reward for the complete behavior. Halloween was a joy this year, for everybody involved!  She got a gazillion treats and didn't scare one small child by barking!
>
> Hope this helps....
>
> Cheryl & Brady ("did I hear the doorbell? oh boy!")

Regarding canine needs,

To build confidence in your dog, try a wrap!
I really like Anxiety Wraps, and wouldn't be without them now. I've used
them for about 3 years for a host of different applications. I initially
wanted it for my thunderphobic, sensitive dog, and this was the first
application for it. Though it did not stop all reactivity, it significantly
increased the dog's comfort level to the point where he could go out for a
walk while it was getting ready to storm, something he normally could not
do. He would go belly down, refuse to move. With the wrap on, he'll walk
willingly--his tail is not up, and you can see signs of stress, but they
are minimal compared to the rapid panting, glazed eyes, the shut-down he
used to have. And, once home from a walk, we let him remain in the Anxiety
Wrap all night, and this keeps him from pacing the house or trying to crawl
inside our skin. With the wrap on, he'll find a spot on the bed and stay
there, or will go to his soft dog bed and fall asleep.

I then used it for a rescue dog who had been horribly abused, plus had some
kind of neurological problems and was a biter. Worse, he gave no warnings
before he bit. He could be leaning into you enjoying being petted, then
just swivel his head and nail the hand petting him. Once, he was given a
low dose of prozac prescribed by the veterinary behaviorist and he had an
adverse reaction to it, became totally agitated, biting at everything
including his crate. We were able to get an AW on him, and that relaxed him
JUST enough that we could walk him for the next 6 hours constantly to allow
it to run its course. Without the AW, he was biting at the lead, and
wouldn't even walk. With the AW on, he walked and ceased to fight the
leash. It was a Godsend that night.

I used it with my adolescent puppies, when they got the "puppy
zoomies"---usually about midnight when my husband and I were trying to go
to sleep. With the AW on, the puppies would quiet down immediately and go
to sleep.

I then used it for training sessions with the adolescents, as I upped the
criteria by adding distractions. The AW was fantastic for helping the puppy
focus better, maintain that focus, and ignore the distractions.

I used it for my very effervescent young adult dog who had to go through
two orthopedic rear leg surgeries, and the AW immensely helped the
restlessness and moving about constantly while the legs were healing.

Once healed, I used the AW with this same very effervescent dog, to help
him to tone down his enthusiasm just enough that he could offer behaviors
without pawing me and talking to me constantly during shaping sessions. It
offered him a bit of body awareness, and that was all that was needed to
help this boy calm down just enough that learning could happen much easier.

I now use the AW for rear work shaping, because it again helps the dogs to
focus and have some body-awareness, and hence, focus on the rear leg
movements, which are very difficult for my dogs to do, since they are
service dogs, and basically very front paw oriented.

I think it's a wonderful product, especially when combined with clicker
training, t-touch, and incremental desensitization. I see it as a very
helpful adjunct for training, for relaxation exercises during stress-filled
times, and especially for those adolescent dogs you wish came with an "off"
button sometimes. <G>

I have two Anxiety Wraps, different sizes, but none small enough to use on
the tiny puppies, so for the little ones I just use the wide Ace Elastic
Bandages, with the velcro on the ends. I do figure-eight wrapping around
the body and chest. I see the very same effect from wrapping with an Ace
bandage. However, the advantage to me of the AW is that it doesn't LOOK
like the dog has been injured if you are working out in public. It just
looks like the dog has a jacket on. The Ace bandage always elicits many
questions about the dog's health.

Oh! Forgot--right now I'm using the wrap for my elder service dog, while
teaching him to stand up on hind legs and "walk" a very large therapy ball
around the room for his AAT sessions, where he'll be pushing the ball to
patients who are learning to bend forward and push with new muscles. The
dog goes across the room to fetch the big ball, "walking" it back to the
patient. The AW has really helped the dog to maintain focus on walking that
ball, so I now put him in it for each short teaching session. We just did
it last week for the first time without the wrap, and in the rehab setting,
and he did great!

I think it's a terrific product, though pricey. And they wear very well--I
wash mine about once a week, or sometimes even more often, and it still
looks like new. It's 3 years old. Wonderful material, very well made!
And Susan Sharpe, the woman who developed the product, is also a clicker
trainer. I not only like the product very much, but love supporting other
clicker trainers' businesses!

Debi Davis
Tucson AZ

In a message dated 12/27/2002 9:38:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
cmbrust@juno.com writes:

> Help.  My sister has two dogs, they would like them in house.  But, the
> dogs dribble when someone pets them.  Even their own family members.  Can this be worked on? 
>
Sure. Family members need to learn how to interact with the dogs in a
non-intimidating body language. I don't mean to imply they are intimidating
them on purpose, but everything about a normal, polite human greeting is rude
and intimidating in the dog world. Direct approach, direct eye contact,
reaching over the head, bending over... these are all very dominant messages
in the canine dictionary. Dogs who are on the submissive side tend to react
to nromal human greetings with appeasing gestures, including submissive
urination.

Teach your family to greet the dogs very calmly, turning sideways, not making
eye contact, and kneeling down rather than bending over to pet the dogs.
Also, have them scratch the dogs under the chin instead of patting on top of
the head.

If a dribble does happen, make *no* reaction. Any verbal or physical reaction
or correction will just make it worse.

When untrained visitors come over, be sure the dogs have just been out to
empty their bladders, and if possible, let visitors greet them outdoors.

How old are the dogs?

"Fostering harmony between the human and non-human animals of our world, and
promoting a philosophy of respect for life."

Pat Miller, CPDT
Peaceable Paws
PO Box 5817
Chattanooga, TN 37406
www.peaceablepaws.com

Author, The Power of Positive Dog Training"
Training Editor, The Whole Dog Journal
President, Association of Pet Dog Trainers
Vice President, Friends of Chattanooga Animal Services
APDT Member #1238P, exp. 12/03

Thoughts on Animal Communication
I took a workshop on animal communication and though I did not personally
like the animal psychic who led it, I did find that by the end of the workshop I was able to pick up things from the animals they had there, things I could not have known that were explained by the owners (especially two alpacas).  I know many people won't believe the experiences, but it wasvery real to me.
    
This lady did teach that we humans do all have the ability to do this, that animals often communicate with each other this way, and as she put it, they "feel sorry for us" that we have lost this ability.  It is a practice thing and an openness thing.
   
Trevor has learned some things that I have never actively taught him.  Also, on field walks, I may have a walk planned out in my head and a lot of the time he knows without direction from me which way to go.  I can only assume that he is picking up on my visual images of the planned walk (which is basically how we learned to communicate--with images).  I have also learned to trust him a lot in selecting the paths within the big route because I have a tendency to get us stuck in thickets or places that are more challenging than I wanted.  When I was still in the "alpha mode" I used to be the Big Cheese saying we're going THIS WAY just to make the point.  All I did is prove myself to be an idiot.  Now I choose the grand route but often go along with his choice of how to go within that route.
   
I don't practice as much as I should, but I definitely don't have qualms about believing something I "just feel."  The facilitator talked about how kids are much better at this than we grownups who have suppressed our abilities--if the kid says Spot has a stomach ache, probably Spot does.  I think it can only enhance the outward training that we try to do.  She was very clear that animals don't necessarily do what you want just because you communicate it, they still may choose to ignore us or disregard. It does not give control over the animal, just more communication.
   
Even if it makes me a flake, I believe.  Even if we don't like the psychic, it doesn't make the phenomenon any less important.  Anne M

----- Original Message -----
From: <howdeeeyall@aol.com>
To: <peaceablepaws@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [peaceablepaws] Re: Pet Psychic

Joan, I agree with you.  I've never seen the pet psychic on TV, but I've had a few experiences with a genuine animal communicator, and she too told me
things that my pets knew and she couldn't.  She even expressed things in language that sounded like the individual animals.  I'm sure they were "talking" to her and she was hearing pretty well.

I think that this is a skill that anyone can learn, but some of us are much more ready to do it than others, and need a lot less work to attain the skill.  Our culture discourages any use of intuition from the time we are babies, and most of us have long ago closed off that sense.  We can learn to open it up again.  The local animal communicator teaches classes.

I think we probably are somewhat intuitive at times with the animals who live
with us, but we are not very aware of it.
Judith

In a message dated 12/19/2002 9:20:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
teddybsmom@cox.net writes:

Though I am no major fan of the pet psychic on TV, I do sometimes work
with a woman who is a pet communicator.  When we first met, I was totally
skeptical on this.  After her first meeting with Teddy, my opinion totally changed.  She told me things that there was no way she could have known.

Before the holidays!
Possible Holiday solution till you can get to a vet in case of an accident.
eindy

COTTON BALL REMEDY
What do you do if your puppy (or mischievous older dog) gets into your holiday decorations and eats some of the glass ornaments?  This
potentially lethal mishap can darken even the brightest holiday season.
>
THE PROCEDURE:
BEFORE the holiday go to a pharmacy and buy a box of cotton balls. Be sure that you get COTTON balls...not the cosmetic puffs that
are made from man-made fibers. Also, buy a quart of half-and-half coffee cream and put it in the freezer. Should your dog eat glass ornaments.
Defrost the half-and-half and pour some in a bowl. Dip cotton balls into the cream and feed them to your dog.  Dogs under 10 lbs should eat 2 balls which you have first torn into smaller pieces.
Dogs 10-50 lbs should eat 3-5 balls and larger dogs should eat 5-7. You may feed larger dogs an entire cotton ball at once.
>
Dogs seem to really like these strange treats and eat them readily.
As the cotton works its way through the digestive tract it will find all the glass pieces and wrap itself around them. Even the
teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibers and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage by the glass.
Your dog's stools will be really weird for a few days and you will have to be careful to check for fresh blood or a tarry appearance to the stool.  If either of the latter symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a checkup but, in most cases, the dogs will
be just fine.
>
An actual experience:  I can personally vouch for the cotton ball treatment.  While I was at the vet waiting for him to return from lunch a terrified woman ran in with a litter of puppies who had demolished a wooden crate along with large open staples. 
The young vet had taken x-rays which did show each of the puppies had swallowed several open staples.  He was preparing them for surgery
when my wonderful vet came in and said no surgery. I watched him wet several cotton balls, squeeze out the water and pop them down their throats.
Within 24 hours every staple was accounted for.  This was a lesson I learned in the mid-1960s and have had to use several times
on my brats.  I wet the cotton balls and smear on some liverwurst and they bolt it down and ask for more.  The cotton always comes out
with the object safely embedded.

Crossposting WITH permission from vaccine list.

Interesting!

Dear Sir

Having recently been involved as an Expert Witness in a vaccine related
court case I would like to express my concern at the lack of knowledge with
which we are debating vaccine related issues.

I would like to draw attention to the fact that the American Association of
Feline Practitioners, the American Animal Hospital Association, Council on
Biologics and Therapeutic Agents and all 27 Veterinary Schools in North
America are in the process of changing their recommended protocols for
vaccinating cats and dogs. Knowledge about immunity with respect to
vaccination has improved greatly over the past five years (1). In making
these changes the following points have been focused on,

-When an annual booster vaccination with a modified live viral vaccine is
given to a previously vaccinated adult dog, no added protection is provided.
-Modified live virus vaccines depend on the replication of the virus for a response.
-Antibodies from previous vaccines do not allow the new virus to replicate.
-Antibody titres are not boosted, more memory cells are not induced.
-No additional protection is provided.
-There is no scientific data to support label directions for re administration of MLV vaccines annually.
-Vaccines are not harmless. Unnecessary side effects and adverse events can
be minimised by avoiding unnecessary vaccinations.
-The emphasis should be on safety and no medicine should be given more
frequently, longer, or at a higher dose than is necessary.

All of the above points are relevant to UK practice, as Professor Richard
Ford stated at the BSAVA Vaccine Symposium 2000, "this is a global issue."
For those practitioners convinced that they have never seen an adverse event
post vaccination, the following mechanisms may be involved (2),

-Contamination with extraneous agents
-Residual virulence of vaccine organisms
-Vaccination of an immunosuppressed animal
-Immune suppression induced by the vaccine
-Excessive induction of cytokine release
-Multiple vaccines administered concurrently
-Hypersensitivity to vaccine antigens
Type I ­ immediate type
Type II ­ cytotoxic type
Type III ­ immune complex type
Type IV ­ delayed type

-Triggering or exacerbation of hypersensitivity to nonvaccine antigens Allergies
Autoimmune disease
-Induction of neoplastic changes

Until we know what constitutes an adverse reaction post vaccination we are
unlikely to acknowledge one, let alone report it through the SAERS.  A group of researchers at Purdue University, Department of Veterinary Pathobiology and Veterinary Clinical Sciences are investigating the effect of vaccination on dogs in a series of experimental studies(3). One of their early studies has concluded that vaccination of dogs using a routine protocol and commonly used vaccines, induces autoantibodies.

In the UK the only information we have had with respect to vaccine issues
has come through the National Office of Animal Health, a briefing document
following the 1998 World in Action programme. Compiled by David Sutton, head of veterinary services at Intervet in his role as Chairman of the
Companion Animal Vaccine Group and endorsed by the BSAVA Scientific Committee. A comfortable symbiotic relationship seems to have developed here.
If 'Standard Veterinary Practice' is the only defense we have for our current vaccination protocols then the honesty and integrity of our profession is at risk.
Yours sincerely

Lyn J Thomson MRCVS

Lynn,
It looks like you got the most out of going to a match!! Realizing how to prepare!! Here are some ideas for those of you just starting to
show:
First!!!!! Make a lst of all the things you will need to take.Start this list about a week before the show, that way as things pop into yourmind, you can write them down.
2. Pack your car/van the day or night BEFORE you leave for the show. That way you won't be rushed last minute (or at least maybe just a little!)
3 Always have these items in your van, that way you won't forget them,I have 2 or more of lots of items for this reason: umbrella, rain coat, rain boots ,change of clothes,t-shirt, sweat-shirt,long pants and shorts , and dry under-wear,extra sets of socks and shoes.(my show shoes are always in the van, not my closet)That way I ALWAYS drive home dry and comfortable, and prepared for any change of weather.
4.Take a cooler for drinks, liver or treats for bait, and some snacks for you, show food is usually expensive, and doesn't taste great. (cut fruit and triscuits with dip are 2 of my favorites, along with power bars)
5. Grooming bag, with show leads and collars, and make sure you have a spare.
Spray bottles, hairdryer, mousse,or chalk if needed, I got a GREAT shammy at Walmart, stays wet, good for cooling down on a hot day, or
keeping thick coats in check and smooth before entering the ring.
6. Water buckets for crates so dogs always have access to water, and won't spill them like a bowl.
7. Put premium in your car the night before with the directions, and also a map.
8.A cooler with water for both you and your dogs.
9 Baggies to cleanup after your dogs.
I hope this helps, and if someone can add,I'd like to hear some more!!!

Regards from sunny Wellborn,Florida USA
            Eileen Madrigale

386-963-1004
Wagons Ho Border Collies and Aust. Shep's.
Panda AX AXJ AAD(retired) CH.Dreamer NA NAJ AD, Ch.Jillaroo,
Ch.Brumby,Ch.Dinkum, New Ch.Devlin, and Szoom  (Jillaroo and Brumby are
beginning their agility careers)
http://community.webtv.net/wagonsho/WagonsHoBorder

Ring Worm
Ringworm is a skin condition of cats and dogs that is caused by a fungus. This condition is not caused by a "worm", it just picked up the slang term of "ringworm". This fungus is capable of spreading from animal to animal, animal to human, and human to animal. Because of this, anytime a pet is suspected of possibly having "ringworm", it is important to evaluate the pet thorougly, rule out other possibilities, and run a test to verify if ringworm exists.

Ringworm is treatable and this can be achieved by use of special shampoos, oral medication, and/or topical medications. What is used for your pet may depend on the severity of the infestation. If your pet does have ringworm, it is important to take care of it right away. You should also notify your personal physician in case you yourself may need medication to use personally.

Keep in mind that just because your pet has ringworm does not mean that you will contract it and it does not mean that if you do contract it, that it came from your pet. The scenario could be the opposite. In fact, your pet and yourself may have picked it up individually from an outside source. Because of this, it is important not to jump to conclusions.

The only true reliable method to diagnose ringworm is by culturing the fungus. A wood's lamp is helpful in screening for the fungus but it is maybe 50-60% effective in definitively diagnosing the condition. When culturing for the fungus, results might not be available for 2-3 weeks. Because of this, treatment for ringworm may be instituted in the mean time depending on history and presentation of the pet.

It is very important to remember that many skin conditions of dogs and cats can look the same until diagnostic tests are run to distinguish between them. If you have questions about ringworm or any other skin condition, you can call de la Houssaye Animal Hospital and we would be happy to discuss them with you.

The above information is not meant to definitively diagnose a condition. It is only meant to help educate pet owners and we encourage them to seek professional assistance if needed.

**If you aren't hunting behind a Wirehair, You aren't really Hunting**
Brian and Susan Agland
email: darkwingwires@shaw.ca
website: www.members.shaw.ca/darkwingwires

From: "Wendy Dreyer" <arboaussie@home.com> | 
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 21:30:44 -0400
Subject: Re: [ClickTeach] where am I going wrong?
    
Hi Jan,
When I start training a new dog first I train each behavior
in each room of the house.  Then I step outside the front door(dog on leash) and train, then outside the back door.  Then I might go out onto the driveway or sidewalk, then maybe across the street.  Then I train in front of each house on my street, or maybe everyother house.  Get the picture?  Slowly change the location (context).  At each new place I lower the criteria basically back to the beginning, so the dog has success.  Each time I change location the training gets faster and faster, as the dog generalizes the lessons from place to place and finally
figures out that he/she can do this behavior (eye contact,
targetting, sit, down, heel, stay, whatever!) anyplace we happen to be.
Then, take your training "on the road".  Make a list of ten
places you can go to train, and try to get to two per day.  When I make my list I try to list them in a logical order for driving,and usually combine it with running errands.  For example, I'll go to the Post Office and the sidewalk across the street from a grammar school because they are next to each other.  Then I'll go to the pet store and the hardware store because they are across the street from each other.  Then I'll go to a large shopping mall and work in front of every store there!  That gets a lot of attention, with lots of opportunity to ask strangers to ask my dog to sit for treats.  This is what I call "Taking it on the
road".
Set your dog up for success by moving in small steps, raising the criteria slowly, and reducing the criteria when you change the context.  Is Dani correct in her assumption that you are letting your dog outside off leash and waiting for offered behaviors?  If so, leash your dog!  You can let the sniffing and exploring be a reward for a good training session *after* the training.
Yours, Wendy

Wendy & Glenn Dreyer
Arboretum Australian Shepherds
27 Dunbar Road
Quaker Hill, CT 06375

Scent training?
    
Step 1.

Using two cloths, one blank and one with my scent, ask the dog to find my cloth with them both just out in front of him.  He has a 50/50 chance of getting it right.  If he sniffs the right one, c/t,  if he sniffs the wrong one ignore.  If he brings me the right one c/t and go potty, if he brings me the wrong one take it, don't give eye contact and wait for him to go find the other one. (of course they are both just in front of him).

Am I right so far?
TERRY: Yes, but remember you are teaching scenting, not retrieving! Stand near the clothes when you first start.

I guess the idea is that clicking him for sniffing the right one teaches him what I am expecting him to do ie find the one with my scent on it.

Questions please:

What if dog doesn't get the idea that I want the one with my scent on it and is obviously just picking any cloth?
TERRY: You might want to put your scent on both cloths, then he is never wrong. Then switch to one of each!

What if dog brings back incorrect cloth then just stands and looks at me and doesn't go back for the other one?
TERRY: I would circle around the other one slowly. Make sure you have a toy or treat that the dog really likes. When mine slows down, I bring out her favourite teddy. Be patient & wait. You may have to go back to just tossing
one out by itself, keep it fun.

Am I doing the work for him, when he advances will he not just wait for me to confirm to him he is sniffing the one I want before deciding if he should bring that one in?
TERRY: I would then encourage him to take it; if he sees you running backwards, he should want to bring it too you. I would delay the click to different intervals of the return. Start, middle & sit in front!

When do I know he is ready to do without the click when he sniffs the right one,  if I have clicked in the past then I withhold the click and he is sniffing the right one, will he then think its incorrect because there was not click?
The above exercise should solve this problem. You might have to click the pickup as well. Don't be deterred or discouraged if he drops it for the treat.(Dog is not wrong)  Delays for movement toward you will fix that
problem.

Can I practice this in my living room too? then take it outside like the rest of the exercises?
Make sure it's fairly fluent before moving around too much. Then YES, use every room in the house, upstairs,downstairs, garage, back & front porch etc.. Good Luck , Regards, Terry
Terry The Dogman
PYE CANINE ACADEMY
Breeding, Training & Consulting
MGRC, CAPPDT, CAOTJ
Home of Timber, Otch, Cinder, CDX
Nova, CDX & Duster, CD
New Brunswick Can.

Message: 2
   Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:53:30 EST
   From: Rafiki500@aol.com
Subject: Re: Multiple Dog Households

In a message dated 11/18/2002 11:30:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hollylcraig@yahoo.com writes:


> I truly believe that my elderly Bichon is still the Alpha in the house. 

Dear Holly,

Hard as it often is for us to accept, it is the natural progression of things that elderly packmates often get knocked off their thrones by ambitious and
vigorous younger pack members. The fact that you had to break it up,
and you know the Wheaton can "make mincemeat" out of the geriatric Bichon is clear evidence that he is *not* the Alpha.

I would put the Wheaton on a "Say Please" program, where she has to earn all privileges, and maintain a clear and calm structure in your household activities. I think you need to accept that your Bichon can't maintain his position, and simply insist on order in the pack - it is perfectly okay for you to gently and firmly let the Wheaton know what behaviors are acceptable and which are not, while at the same time recognizing that she is, or soon will be, queen bee.

That said, you *must* protect your old guy by feeding him in a safe place and
not letting him get in a situation where he could be attacked. As the Wheaton
establishes herself, chances are, with his age-impaired functions, he either can't see her warning signals or can't move away quickly enough to suit her, and inadvertantly triggers the attacks by not being deferent enough for her liking.

As for the crate, if she is only crated when you are gone, then crating is a
reliable predictor of your long absence. Play crate games with her when you
are home - toss a high value treat in the crate for her to get, and let her come right back out again. Sometimes let her stay in the crate with the door closed while you are home, and radmonly drop high value treats in to her.  Give her deliciously stuffed Kongs in the crate so that going in the crate is a reliable predictor of *really good stuff*. Make the crate a *great* place to be!

You also mention that she is very energetic. Exercise!!! Structured, tongue-dragging exercise 3-5 times a week can work wonders - or find a good
doggie daycare in your area where she can play herself into exhaustion 3-5
times a week.

I think with a little more structure and management you can get this worked
out - to the relief of all!!

"Fostering harmony between the human and non-human animals of our world, and promoting a philosophy of respect for life."

Pat Miller, CPDT
Peaceable Paws
PO Box 5817
Chattanooga, TN 37406
www.peaceablepaws.com

Author, The Power of Positive Dog Training"
Training Editor, The Whole Dog Journal
President, Association of Pet Dog Trainers
Vice President, Friends of Chattanooga Animal Services
APDT Member #1238P, exp. 12/03

11/10/02
Our shows are different from yours.   This was a  championship show and each breed has it's own judge and has roughly six or more classes for each sex.   This was a gundog show so there were only HPR, Setters, Retrievers, Spaniels.    The top dog and bitch get a challenge certificate and three of these won under three different judges makes the dog a champian.   This is not as easy as it seems.    At open shows we have 7 groups, Pastoral, Working, Terrier, Gundog, Toy, Hound, Utility.  Usually some breeds will have a specialist judge but mostly a judge will judge the whole group.   This means they judge all the breed classes in the group.   Dogs which are champians compete in the open class and can also enter open shows.  We don't have a special class for champs but do at some shows have a champ stakes class.     Pat  

I read the post regarding the juniors ,i presume the international final.  All children use a dog from the U.K,each child has to nominate 3 breeds in order of preference,some breeds arent allowed to be used in
the finals so it can limit the choices greatly for some competitors.  Once the breed is arranged you meet it on the day with an hour or more to meet,practise & prepare.
All the nations are suppose to have the same "meet your dog on the dog & not prior"rules.
When it first started you could arrange your own dog which was great & that is what my brother did when he won the title in 1987,so you new what dog you where getting ,how it showed etc etc as they know have so many nations it is different & you have no input.
The Australian finals have just be held & we train the winner so it is now time to put the thinking caps on as to what breed as a number of the breeds are showen so differently,groomed differently or are as boring as can be be(we have american bred Irish setters  & the irish in england are very different can be a real shock if it isnt what your used to)so selecting a breed is quite hard.
Michelle (australia)

I would also like to share with you what I'm learning about the GSP from what I'm reading.  Come and read and share what you are also reading.  This may include information from other countries and what's happening in the GSP world or other varieties of pointers and their accomplishments, or just simple brags about what you are doing.   

Melissa and taylor asked for some Show-N-Go advice.

You gave me an opening for my "Show-N-Go" song.

If you even think you may want to compete "someday" start going to Show-N-Gos as soon as your dog has reasonable manners. It gives your dog an opportunity to be exposed to the show environment as a regular part of the training (rather than trying to lump the huge environment change at the end when you are really ready to compete).
Also remember that Show-N-Gos are not trials and they are not even matches. There will not be any ribbons and no scores. A Show-N-Go is a training tool that simulates a show environment and lets you train through problems or check where you are in your training. Use it like a tool, not a test! (It took me two years to realize this!)

Now what to expect...

Unless you pre-entered, you will need to get there during the sign up time window. Leave the dog in the car (unless it is too hot) and go find the sign up table. Sign up for at least two runs (unless you are time limited).

Now you can get your crate, dog and other junk and find a comfy place to watch. (Make sure you have a good chair!) All the Utility and Open runs usually go before the Novice runs. Sometimes there are separate rings, but usually Novice will run last. (It could be an hour or two before Novice starts.)

Watch a couple of the Utility folks. They are not working on perfect
performances. They are just working on the "tough" parts for their dogs. They have toys and treats in the ring.

Take a hint from these folk. Make a list of one or two things that you want to accomplish in the ring. Different ones for each run are fine. For example, I am going to a Show-N-Go next weekend. First run I want a good Figure 8. I will do the figure 8 more times than called and may stop at odd places or move extra fast and I plan on blasting out of the "fast post" and treat heavily. Second run, I want no lagging on the off lead heeling. I will carry treats and treat when he is actually forged a little. You may just want a few steps of attention, a good stand, or a nice recall. Plan how to get the behavior and how you will reward it.

Two or three dogs before your turn, make sure you dog has pottied and warm him up just a little. (Games, tug, eye contact, what ever works for you.)

When it is your turn, the stewards and "judge" will treat it just like a trial. The steward will bring you in the ring and the "judge" will ask if you are Ready. As a courtesy, I will tell them if I am going to do something besides what they call or if I would like a really long or really short heeling pattern. Stop and treat where ever you want. (You may not want to click, just use your word.) All the rest of the exercises will work the same way. Don't give up your leash if you don't want to. Don't want the judge to actually touch the dog during the stand, just tell them. Use a flexi for the recall (make sure you bring it to the stewards table before you go in) if you need it to guarantee success. Do what ever you need to make it a good experience for the dog. (Make sure you don't leave any treats in the ring.) You basically have bought about 6 minutes of ring time, to play with your dog in front of an audience.

As far as groups (sits and downs) go. Again you can leave your leash on or
just not go all the way across the ring. Be aware that many people will
correct their dogs for breaking and these dogs may "scream". (Don't value
judge this, the corgi we train with is a screamer if you even look irritated
with her.) If your dog is even a little sensitive to this either skip the groups this first time or walk quietly across the ring and treat your dog very heavily if a nearby dog breaks and that dog's handler is heading back to correct the dog. If you choose to skip the groups, make sure to tell a steward so they are not off looking for you.

Have fun, and try to keep a light attitude so your dog has a good time.

Sally W. and Smokey (Did mom say treats in the ring next weekend!?!)
Newberg, OR

Cathi,

Morgan Spector's book "Clicker Training for Obedience" has a great
section on the touch stick. (beginning on page 46)

The main points he makes are....
1. don't get the dog used to sitting and touching the stick.  add movement early on...step by step until you have strong following behavior.

2. use a collapsable touch stick to that it is easier to fade the
stick to just a hand signal.

You asked how the dog knows whether it is being clicked for touching the stick or for the movement.  Think of the stick as an extention of your hand... thus it becomes just an exaggerated hand signal.

Speaking of collapsable touch sticks...I found mine at the auto parts store.  It is one of those telescoping magnets.  Looks like a pen with a little round magnet on the end of it when closed...extends out to about 25 1/2".

To teach the begging behavior, hold the touch stick slightly above Ty's nose.  Give him the touch cue.  You may have to bounce the stick in the air a bit to get him to move.  Click any upward motion and shape it from there.  (I am teaching Sadie this as part of the "pop finish.")  Gradually shorten the stick until it is just your hand making a upward arc of sorts...

The touch stick can be used to teach movement for "finish" "front" "heel" "down" "sit" "go outs" as well as agility and other sport moves.

I also like the way Morgan teaches the go out.  Put the stick in the ground at gradually increasing distances from the dog.  Keep the treat with you instead of putting it on the target.  Send the dog to touch the stick and click at random distances.  The dog has to stop and come back to you for the reward. Add the cue "away" or "go"...first just as he is about to touch the stick and then
gradually say it sooner until you are giving the cue just before you
send him out. (pg 51 and 213)

Hope this helps!
Stephanie & Co.

Hi Lisa,
Do you mean to make them sit politely for leashes etc?  They are pushy maniacs when it comes to going out.  In fact, the shep/husk (11mos) has just started door dashing and our yard is not fenced.  This is probably the one behaviour that has me most worried for obvious reasons.

You can teach them to sit quietly for leashes pretty much the same way you teach them to sit quietly to be fed. You just wait them out. When they're calm, you lean down to put on the leash. When they get up or get hyper, you stand up and look away. If you put the leash on a hyper dog and open the door, you've reinforced hyper behavior. It worked! He got to go on the walk.
So make calm behavior and *only* calm behavior work.

Does anyone know if there's an article on teaching a dog to wait at doorways on the ClickerSolutions site? I think there is -- by Debi Davis. Check it out. It works!

I am worried however about the lack of space.  i.e. how much can I teach.  I want to have sits and downs from anywhere and without superstitious behaviours like coming around to the front before executing behaviour etc.  How do you deal with this in a small space?  I hope this is clear.

It's very clear -- and an excellent question. First, change rooms frequently. Change your gate arrangement to put the others in a different room. You can also change your position in the room -- don't forget to work on diagonals, not just squared up to the walls. You can change your body
position -- do reps while you are standing, sitting, lying down, bending over, waving your hands, standing on one foot, etc. Intentionally work with the dog beside you, away from you, behind you. One way to work on distance is to use gates and such to keep your dog from coming to you initially.

Good luck!

Melissa Alexander
http://www.clickersolutions.com

From ClickerSolutions:
Hi Marni,

I have an eight week program, first week no dogs.  My orientation talk includes, among many other things, stressing the importance of constant supervision for pups and adolescent dogs.  And I use my own demo-dog...usually Teacher but sometimes Bay... to show the students how, in the course of keeping the pup with them at all times, they can begin to lay the foundation for LLW with*out* the leash.  Pup/dog must be encouraged to stay with you all the time anyway, as you move about the house... so while you're encouraging the dog to stay with you, use a toy or food (toy is usually
adequate at home) to lure the dog along one (particular) side of you, walk with you... and the reward when you reach your destination is a quick game with the toy.  With my dogs, this 'walk with me game' quickly became a ritual they enjoyed, that didn't need a toy or a lure, just a finger wiggle as cue... started building in sit when we stop, and I might stop several
times before getting to the destination... and there was always something worthwhile at the destination.  So right there I built a reward history for the behavior of 'walk with me' which, when taken 'on the road', didn't need
AS high a rate of reinforcement as you'd typically need when you're trying to BUILD the behavior under high distraction (classroom).
My students begin playing this game with their dogs right after orientation.
In week two, we charge the clicker (I prefer that this be done while I'm watching... I've been amazed at the number of people who, left to their own devices, mess this part up), we work on attention, sit, stand,handling/massage (teaching dogs to accept familiar/invasive handling),taking treats gently, 'give it', and 'gotcha' (teaching them to accept/welcome having collar grasped).  HW includes primarily attention, 25 sits a day building in life rewards to fade the food, and continue the 'walk with me' game.
LLW is introduced in week three... I put all dogs on one side of the room and let the students try LLW on the OTHER side, one at a time, so as to minimize distraction for this first classroom experience.  Everyone's done
great with it, first time out!

Kim Burrell

From ClickerSolutions:
Dogs generally don't do as well in class due to all the distractions.  Remember (and remind your mom!) that in class, you need to keep reinforcement rate high, which may mean relaxing your criteria.  It is also a good idea to actively
work on training the dog to pay attention to you in class.  If you
can't get the dog's attention away from the interesting dogs around
her, you won't be able to accomplish much in class.  When I take one
of my own dogs to a class, teaching the dog to focus on me is my
primary goal- all the rest is meaningless until that is accomplished!

Hope this helps!

Susan Mann, Tip Top Training
Pepper, Scout, Brodie, and Kyp!


From ClickerSolutions
"Hi Sarah!

I do two things on walks to discourage sniffing.  First I do use a happy "leave it, let's go!' if they start to sniff and keep moving briskly forward.  After a few times when they have to hurry to keep up lagging behind isn't really an issue. Most dogs I know really want to stay ahead of the pack!

When they do catch up they get a verbal 'good!' and if they keep with me they get a treat - in the training stages anyway.  These days they just get a 'good!'.  Same thing if they see another dog across the street, a squirrel, or whatever.  And if they do leave something really tempting we have a big party after we passed the obstacle.  "What a good leave it!  Who are the smartest dogs in the
entire world?  etc. etc. (treats for all)."

Second, we tend to use LLW when we're going 'fun' places.  So if we're going on a walk we almost always go somewhere 'fun for dogs' where they can be offleash.  So I think there's some major reinforcement for staying with me as well, as I think they know they'll get a chance to sniff and pee all they want in a little while..

One last thing, my dogs do 'sniff' when we're walking, but not so much as they stop the 'parade'.

Hope this helps.

Lindsay and All
www.BrisbeeTheWhite.com"

What I learned about vitamin C today!
Message: 3
   Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 02:37:15 -0000
   From: "Mitch Kirby" <uf7r@icrossroads.com>
Subject: Vit C

Hello All,
In case anyone was wondering how important Vit C is to our friends,
please read, lengthly but worth it!

An acquaintance of mine, B.J. Richardson, was calling from Texas,
doubt and hope in his voice. "My English Pointer isn't a year old,
and he's already lame in the rear end, especially the left hip,"
Richardson said. "The X-rays show hip dysplasia. The veterinarian
says there are two choices: operate to alleviate the pain, or put
the dog down. I can't afford one and won't do the other. Is it true
that Vitamin C might help?"

I had to say that I'd never heard of Vitamin C curing canine hip
dysplasia, but I was aware that veterinarian Wendell Belsfield of
San Jose, CA, did prevent CHD -- or least its symptoms -- in eight
litters of German shepherds, a breed that is prone to crippling
abnormal development of a dog's hip joints. In those instances, all
of the dogs' parents had CHD or had previously whelped pups that
became dysplastic. Belsfield gave the bitches Vitamin C throughout
pregnancy and lactation. The pups received Vitamin C from weaning
until they were two years old. None of the pups developed CHD during
that entire period.

Though Belsfield's work wasn't scientific in the strict sense, it
certainly indicated that CHD could be prevented. Still I couldn't
see how the joint could be remodeled once it had grown improperly,
at least not without surgery. However, Vitamin C therapy seemed to
be Richardson's only hope, so I told him what I knew.

Many readers had written and told me that their arthritic dogs
normally were laid up after a few hours in the field, but when given
Vitamin C, they could hunt several days in a row. None had said they
did it with dogs that had CHD, but maybe....

I also recalled reading about the efforts of Dr. Bob Cathcart, a
medical doctor in California who championed the use of Vitamin C in
curing a wide variety of joint ailments and illnesses. Much of his
work centered around using the vitamin in large quantities,
increasing the doses until the body reaches "bowel tolerances."
Though Cathcart's work was with human patients, many veterinarians
adopted his method, saying that Vitamin C should be given in
increasing doses until the dog's stools loosen, at which point the
dose should be backed off a half a gram or a gram at a time until
the stools became firm again. At that point, the dog's body receives
the maximum Vitamin C that it can utilize.

I also understood that a superior form of the vitamin is Ester-C,
which can be purchased in health food stores. The vitamin in Ester-C
is molecularly locked to calcium, so it doesn't cause the acidity
problems normally associated with ascorbic acid (the common form of
Vitamin C), which can upset a dog's stomach. Ester-C also has
natural C metabolites that get it into the cells faster and more
effectively (common ascorbic acid is slower getting out of the blood
serum, so it passes through the kidneys, where much of it is rapidly
lost in the urine).


Pinto's Rebound
A month or two later, I heard that Pinto, Richardson's dog, had
begun improving less than a week after receiving maximum doses of
Ester-C. Pinto, the grandson of Miller's Chief -- an 11-time
champion in horseback-style bird-dog trials -- was now running like
the wind. I was as surprised as I was delighted.

Two years later, I was in Texas and dropped in to see Pinto.
Richardson had kept him on a maintenance dose of Ester-C. The dog
was moving with a fluid grace and power in the hips. Twice, for a
step or two, I saw a bunny hop, suggesting that not everything was
100 percent correct. But both times, Pinto immediately shifted back
to a normal gait.

I still couldn't understand how Ester-C could remodel a defective
joint, but I was hopeful. Nobody I knew whose debilitated dog had
improved clinically on Ester-C had ever taken X-rays of the joints,
so I asked Richardson to have X-rays taken.

He did and mailed me the original X-ray taken two years before and a
new one. I showed both to Dianna K. Stuckey, a board certified
radiologist in St. Louis, who looked at the original and pointed out
the hip dysplasia with the left hip most severe. The
second? "Arthritis that customarily follows hip dysplasia," she
said. I explained Pinto's quick and lasting response to Ester-
C. "How could this dog go from lame to moving freely, and apparently
without pain, in a few days -- and stay that way without something
improving in the joints?"

"We occasionally see this," Stuckey said. "A dog is arthritic yet
moves as if it feels no pain. We don't know why. Great 'heart'
maybe, or high pain tolerance."


Mystery Unfolds
I'm sure that veterinarians do see this. But the answer to my
question, Pinto's improvement was not because of great heart or high
pain tolerance. He had been hurting and he had been limping badly.
If his response to such pain improved in just a few days, something
caused that change.

Dr. Chuck Noonam of Weston, CT also compared the X-rays. He noticed
slight improvement in the severity of the dysplasia but said the hip
joint had clearly succumbed to degenerate arthritis from the
dysplastic hip joint banging around in and out of the socket.

"Eighty-three percent of dysplastic dogs either show an improvement
in their hip dysplasia or they learn to deal with the problem as
they grow older," Noonan said. "The second X-ray shows that the
dysplasia is slightly less severe, but because of the arthritis, the
joint is worse overall than in the earlier X-ray. It is possible
that the Vitamin C was helping to sort of lubricate the joint so the
dog felt less pain."

In my investigations, I had found that Pinto's results from Ester-C
weren't unique. Soon after Richardson first called, I received a
letter from Steve Dudley of Arizona. His young black Lab, who showed
great promise at hunting Gambel's quail, went lame with CHD.
Dudley's vet suggested that Dudley replace the hip -- or expect to
put the dog down by age four. Dudley tried Ester-C instead and the
dog promptly improved. Kept on Ester-C, the dog lived until age 13
without showing signs of soreness, lameness, or unwillingness to
hunt, Dudley wrote.


Flood of Proof
My investigation also led to Charles Docktor, an Arizona
veterinarian who was the first to test Ester-C for its effectiveness
in healing joint problems. In 1983, he used Ester-C on a large
number of arthritic dogs, finding that 75 percent improved in
various degrees in a short period of time.

Independently, a continent away, Dr. Geir Erick Berge, a
veterinarian in Oslo, Norway, performed a similar study, that was
reported in the August-September 1990 issue of The Norwegian
Veterinary Journal. Berge selected 100 dogs with a variety of joint
ailments. His testing revealed that 75 percent of the dogs rapidly
improved on Ester-C, some only slightly, some almost totally. Dr.
Berge added that large amounts of Vitamin C metabolites, substances
essential to a body's metabolic processes, are required in
rebuilding diseased joint tissue.

Corroborating data were also reported by Dr. N. Lee Newman, who
conducted 18 months of clinical tests using Ester-C to combat
degenerative joint disease in performance horses. She reported a
remarkable 90 percent success rate, ranging from good to excellent.
Furthermore, 80 percent of the improved horses remained sound after
Ester-C was discontinued. Newman credited supplemental Ester-C with
maintaining the integrity of collagen and connective tissue and with
mobilizing white cells in the immune system, while deactivating free
radicals that damage cell membranes.

But other respected voices were making contradictory statements. The
Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Animal Health
newsletter in May 1995 denied that Vitamin C was of any value for
either preventing or treating skeletal diseases in dogs. "There have
been absolutely no confirmed reports that Vitamin C is helpful in
any such instances," the newsletter stated. It went on to theorize
that supplemental Vitamin C has no value because dogs produce
adequate amounts of the vitamin in their livers.

But that reasoning is questionable. Vitamin C production varies from
dog to dog, individual bodily needs vary, and circumstances --
health and environment -- vary enormously. "Adequate" in human
medicine only means enough Vitamin C to prevent scurvy. What is
adequate for a strict carnivore like a dog? And in any
case, "adequate" should not be assumed to be a synonym
for "optimum."

This is where a Vitamin C standoff occurs, and getting people to
change their scientific opinion is like asking them to change their
religion. In Cornell's favor, the evidence that has existed
supporting the use of Vitamin C on dysplastic dogs is heavily
anecdotal. Even the various veterinarians' research that has been
cited was actually efficacy tests -- that is, all of the dogs tested
were given similar doses of the vitamin and no controlled
comparisons were made. Efficacy testing strongly suggests conclusive
evidence, but it does not provide scientific proof.


The Acid Test
But in 1994, veterinarian L. Philips Brown presented the results of
scientifically acceptable "double-blind crossover" study on the
effects of Vitamin C to a national conference on holistic veterinary
medicine. Brown, the owner of the largest veterinary hospital on
Cape Code for 22 years, tested Vitamin C on 50 dogs with serious
joint problems. The dogs were among a population of more than 500
canines at a large animal sanctuary in Utah. It should be noted here
that representatives of Inter-Cal, makers of Ester-C, specifically
asked Brown to study the vitamin because they felt it could have a
major role in the treatment of joint abnormalities. Dave Stenmoe,
one of the representatives of the manufacturer, says "We told
[Brown] not to take our word for anything." Just to keep an open
mind and conduct a scientific comparison of Ester-C, ordinary
Vitamin C, and a placebo. He finally agreed to do it.

Brown, along with the Utah sanctuary's resident veterinarian, hand-
picked the dogs with the worst cases of joint disease and placed
them in five groups.

After four weeks of testing, the supplements were withdrawn for
three weeks. Then, each dog was crossed over to a different group
and received another supplement for another four weeks. After yet
another three-week layoff, 60 percent of the dogs were switched to a
third supplement. The remaining 40 percent went back to whatever
they were given during the first four weeks. At the end, mobility
scores were calculated to determine the average for each of the five
groups.

The results were impressively in favor of Ester-C therapy. Seventy-
eight percent of the dogs on 2,000mg of Ester-C experienced improved
mobility within four or five days. The average improvement score was
1.52. About 60 percent of the improved dogs relapsed when Ester-C
was discontinued, but the group that returned to Ester-C in the
third phase then regained mobility. Handlers reported no negative
side effects.

On the low (850mg) dose of Ester-C, only 52 percent of the dogs
improved, with an average score of 0.45. Obviously, size of dose was
important. Of dogs receiving 2,000mg of Ester-C with extra minerals,
62 percent improved by an average score of 0.87. Why Ester-C without
extra minerals had better results remains unknown.

Ordinary Vitamin C improved 44 percent of the dogs, with a score of
0.67. As expected, no noticeable change occurred among dogs on the
placebo.

Not even the most dyed-in-the-wool skeptic can ignore the results of
such a double-blind crossover study. But the success of Vitamin C in
treating CHD can still be questioned, or even denied, because X-rays
show that the joints remain loose or arthritis remains. Even Brown
confirms that X-rays taken for his study reveal defective skeletal
structures even after the Ester-C treatment.


Soft Tissue Factor
But those who see improvement with Ester-C are looking primarily at
an animal's behavior -- they see an improved ability to function.
How can both proponents and skeptics consider themselves correct?
Perhaps by each being half right.

A joint is not bone alone. Soft tissue -- cartilage and synovial
membrane -- exist between bones to permit movement. If such tissue
deteriorates, movement becomes more painful. Vitamin C is essential
in the making and rebuilding of soft tissue because it promotes the
growth of Collagen, a tough, stringy "mortar" that holds cells
together. At the same time, the soft tissue also holds water, which
maintains compression resistance to cushion the joint -- this is
the "lubrication" described by Noonan in his assessment of Pinto's X-
rays.

In healthy cartilage, normal cell loss is balanced by the rebuilding
of cells. Under diseased or inflammatory conditions, cell loss is
excessive. In the case of a dog's hip joint, this can mean that
adequate cushioning no longer exists. The high demand for Vitamin C
may begin exceeding the amount made in the dog's liver, so
deterioration continues. Or supplemented Vitamin C may turn the
process around.

Field experience, although still anecdotal, suggests that dogs on
Ester-C lead full lives without terrible pain and debilitation.
Ester-C may prove to be a wondrous holistic cure, but OUTDOOR LIFE
cautions that it's too early to state definitively that Vitamin C
can cure or rectify canine hip dysplasia. Some doctors contend that
the treatment is merely a Band-Aid on a far more serious problem.

We should add one point. Hip dysplasia is at least partially
inheritable. And it is not a simple, single-gene defect. There is
now concern that dysplastic dogs returned to mobility may also be
returned to reproduction, which would further spread the malady. It
is fair to say that there appears to be a great deal of hope for the
benefits of Vitamin C, but before administering the vitamin to your
dog, consult your veterinarian. And until more is known, don't breed
that dog.

I must add I use Cili Boa for a Vit C replacement, I feel it is much
better but each to their own.

Mitch

From: "G&B Gowan" <gowans@globalserve.net>
To: "Jeanne Barrett" <jbarrett@nas.net>
Subject: natural worm treatment
Date: Sun, Apr 8, 2001, 9:25 AM
Subject: Natural parasite prevention/treatment

Last year, my dog had worms.  I did a bunch of research, read all of the natural dog health books, and collected this list of prevention and treatment measures.  I used only a few, and the worms were cleared up in a month (maybe sooner, but that's when I had the first fecal recheck, and another recheck in 6 weeks).  Be careful with treatment - even natural wormers can be toxic if used too long or in too strong a dose:

Natural parasite prevention and remedies

Here are some things that you can occasionally put into the diet to prevent parasites taking up residence in your dog's digestive system.  Then I'll list some things that can be used for infestation.
The BARF diet, when you make a mush of meat and vegetables, or ground raw meaty bones and vegetables, provides a nice "medium" to add these ingredients. My dog will even eat up the capsules without any disguise, if they are sufficiently submerged into the raw food.

The BARF diet itself goes a long way in discouraging parasites because of the lack of grains (which turn to sugar, which encourages parasites) and the presence of enzymes which are caustic to parasites.  The BARF diet enhances immune system functioning, and a healthy immune system can be an effective weapon against parasites in and of itself.

Prevention - regular dietary components

1.  Fresh or kyolic garlic - has natural antibiotic properties, along with anti-worm   properties.  Only 1 clove of garlic per day, or 1 capsule of kyolic garlic.

2.  Parsley tea - put one bunch of fresh parsley in one quart purified water, bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes. Let cool.  Throw out parsley. Give one tablespoon of parsley water per day, or several times per week  (Make ice cubes for easy storage).  Warming up the ice cube and mixing into the food is a nice way to bring refrigerated BARF up to room temperature.

3.  Fresh ground Pumpkin seeds - effective against tape worm.  Best to grind the seeds right before serving - 1 tsp to 1 TBSP per day.  I grind up the seeds and mix up with my BARF mush and immediately freeze the food.

4.  Cod Liver Oil - high in vitamin A.  Vitamin. A deficiency can allow infestation in an otherwise immune-healthy animal.  1/2 - 1 tsp daily. Usually, BARFed dogs don't have a vitamin A deficiency.

5.  Roughage - in the BARF diet, we feed a combo of veggies pulped very finely so that the dog can absorb the nutrition from the vegetables.  But, we can also coarsely chop hard vegetables like carrots and turnips (the size of peas) and mix that in with the food. Because these hard vegetables are left large, they won't be digested, therefore, no calories or nutrition will be absorbed, so they won't upset the nutritional and pH balance in the food.
  
However, left in large dice, they act like a broom, helping to scrape the parasite-housing mucus off of the intestinal walls.  You will see the carrots out in the yard in basically the same size and shape as they went in, hopefully, with some mucus, occasionally.

This is also an effective weight-loss trick, adding safe but indigestible bulk into the food so the dog feels like it's eaten more, while not allowing it to absorb the calories in the large-dice vegetables.  Putting in some coarse vegetables also makes the whole
texture of the food chunkier, so it's easier to disguise supplement capsules.  Not having to open up your capsules helps to make the food taste better.

If the dog objects to large dice vegetables, start by adding carrots (they're sweet, so most dogs will accept them) in very small dice.  Increase the size of the dice over time, and start adding other veggies.  My dog likes diced veggies as treats, now that she's so
used to them.

6.  Wheat germ oil - a tapeworm inhibitor.  1/2 - 1 tsp per day.

7.  Supplemental enzymes - enzymes are caustic to the outer coating of worms, and make them weaken and give up their hold in the intestinesOne dried (organic, unsulphured) fig per day provides ficin and is tasty treat.  Papain is found in papaya, often found in
digestive enzyme complexes. Bromelain takes a machete to the outer "skin" of worms (including e-coli bacteria).  Apple Cider Vinegar (organic, with the mother) is also a good source of enzymes and is slightly anti-bacterial - 1 tsp - 1 TBSP per day (or to the dog's taste - mine will allow only 1 tsp, at the most.

8. Aloe Vera gel - 1 tsp to 1 TBSP several times per week.  Gently sloughs the parasites off of the intestinal walls.  Be careful with dosage - can cause diarrhea.

10.  Probiotics, or "intestinally friendly bacteria" eat the outer coating of the worm.  Get non-dairy Acidophilus/Bifidus, add 1capsule to each meal.  The value of probiotics extends well beyond parasite prevention - it aids digestion and absorption of nutrients in general.  Probiotics are found naturally in  Kefir, which is a fermented milk product which contains over 20 different active cultures, and certain brands of organic plain yogurt provide up to 6 or 7 different cultures.  Average national brand plain yogurt in the dairy case is virtually worthless and provides only minimal nutrition.  Check the packaging for the kinds of active cultures.  Give culture-rich foods 15 - 30 minutes prior to meals.

11.  MSM - in addition to helping with osteo and inflammatory conditions, MSM is natural sulphur, which is unfriendly to parasites.

12.  Fasting - in the BARF diet, many of us fast one day per week.  Fasting weakens the parasites. I feed home made, onion-free chicken broth heavy with fresh garlic on that day.  Putting all of the above dietary components into the very next real meal will attack remaining parasites that have weakened during the fast, but are still hanging about.

Treatment

A word of caution.  Do not try ALL of the things listed below at once! That would be very taxing to the body and you may cause liver damage. But you could try ONE thing at a time, for 1 week, ease back into "prevention" mode above for 3 weeks, and have another fecal check to determine if your treatment has worked.  Of course, doing any of the below under the direction of a holistic/homeopathic vet would be best.

In addition to the "prevention" substances above, chose ONE for only a week at a time:

1.  Black Walnut hulls (1 capsule per day) or Black Walnut Hull tincture (1 drop per day)

2. Wormwood (1 capsule per day) or Wormwood Tincture (1 drop per day). That's Artemesia Absinthum

3.  Ground cloves - 1 capsule per day.  Must get it at a reliable health food store/mail order to ensure freshness.

4.  Grapefruit Seed Extract, or Agrisept - a natural antibacterial.  One drop per day.  (you can make a dilution of 10 drops to 1 pint of purified water, and give 1 tsp. of this dilution on a daily basis as prevention, also).

5.  Homeopathic remedies - Cina (wormseed) and Filis Mas (male fern)

6.  Herbal wormers - avoid any with onion (heinz body poisioning).  Two that I know of available in the US are Paratox and Herbal Pumpkin.  These each contain a collection of herbs, some designed for killing the parasites, and some designed for flushing out the
intestines.  Be very careful with these - certainly no more than 1 per day for 1 week. Retest in 3 weeks.

7.  Fasting - a broth fast for one day helps weaken worms.  Give a few senna pods as a laxative during a fast to completely clean out the intestines.  In the next full meal, add a lot of the coarsely chopped vegetables to scrape any mucus from the intestine walls -
mucus provides a safe "house" for parasites.

8.  Yucca shigedera - powdered yucca root is a natural cleansing agent, containing saponins (soap precursors).  It is very effective in treating coccidia.  Add ½ tsp. to meals, gradually increasing to up to 1 TBSP per day for 1-2 weeks.  Be careful, as it is a soap-like substance and can cause stomach cramps.  Yucca is also an anti-inflammatory and helps with arthritis.

Worms seem to like foods like fats, sugars (which means grains and fruits), eggs, and whole milk, so make sure to exclude these foods when trying to get rid of worms. Reintroduce eggs, fats and fruits after you are sure the worms are gone for good. It is best to worm your animals wait 3 weeks and test for worms again, as some worms may
hang on. The animals can then be treated again if need be.

Juliette Di Baircly Levy likes to point out that low levels of worm infestation (showing up positive in the fecal exam, but not resulting in any symptoms like diarrhea and vomiting) SHOULD be treated by herbal and nutritional means as gently as possible, but that we
shouldn't get tremendously upset about them.  It is far worse to "bomb" the system with conventional treatments and toxic chemicals (and any of the "treatments" I list above can become toxic if given in large dosages or for too long), than to just go along with a low concentration, provided there are no symptoms.  So, if you have only a low-level infestation, time is on your side.  You can try one treatment, rest, retest, and then repeat the cycle as needed, to get rid of worms safely and effectively.

Most animals get worms at some point in their lives. The key to successfully getting rid of worms and preventing their return is a healthy immune system.

Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 20:39:03 -0700
   From: "Carla Baker - A to Z Dalmatians" <AtoZDals@scattercreek.com>
Subject: OFF TOPIC: New Training Methods

Liquor Training

Now clicker training's quite the fad.
Results from some are not too bad.
The concept stemmed from Pavlov's hound
Responding to some special sound.

The dog would start to salivate
Before he got the food he ate.
The modern click does much the same.
Enhancing our dog-training game

By causing Fido's hopes to raise--
Anticipating treats or praise.
Sometimes you click to no avail,
And other methods also fail.

No matter how you plead or shout,
Sometimes the dog just won't put out
When asked to sit or heel or stay,
Thus giving you a rotten day.

It makes you feel quite like a fool,
And then you start to lose your cool.
But if your methods fail for you.
There's something else that you can do.

Try "liquor training", that's its name,
To help you with your dog-sport game.
"How does this method work?" you ask
Well, first you get a little flask

Containing gin or other booze
Of any kind that you may choose.
Each time your dog decides to goof,
You take a sip of 80 proof.

It helps the handler to relax
And minimize the stress attacks.
When handler's mood is more at ease,
The dog may sometimes try to please,

Or, then again may still refuse
To mind his training P's and Q's.
But whether foul results or fair
You liquor train -- you just don't care.

Author Unknown
Message: 1
   Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 22:08:28 EDT
   From: Zenasmom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mental development


In a message dated 9/4/02 3:16:13 PM, mcalex@attbi.com writes:

<< As I watched this, I started thinking about our dogs. Is it fair to
say they develop the same skills (on an adjusted scale)? If so, how
does that relate to our training of them and their ability to master
and generalize? How (and when) do we teach these skills? What about
dogs who *don't* learn these skills when they should?

Melissa Alexander >>

Melissa,
One of the most valuable classes I took in graduate school was taught
by a
woman who specialized in adolescence -- she talked at length and with
great
insight and professional research and practical experience about the
developmental milestones that people go through to achieve adulthood
and IF
they don't go through the develomental stages during the chronological
development they will not mature and be an adult unless and until they
do.
This why I'm sure we can all think of people who are ostensibly
chronological
adults but act more like adolescents...they likely never went through
the
significant developmental stages at the right time.

I truly believe as a lifelong observer and now full time trainer of
dogs that
if dogs miss the crucial information in proper socialization relevant
during
their early adolescent social/emotional development, they're very
likely if
not absolutely going to be socially/emotionally "retarded". Maybe they
can be
rehabbed through great effort and/or simply managed to not be social
and
therefore "safe" or they "screw up" (it's us screwing them up, but what
are
semantics in a place like this?) and get thrown away, taken to the
proverbial
farm, end up in rescue, or get somehow somewhere else.

I so respect clients I know who have knowingly taken in dogs with
social/emotional neglect baggage and are committed to working with them
and
really making great strides. I know as a mother of three young girls I
cannot
nor would I ever risk bringing in an animal that doesn't have at the
very
least great potential for working out acceptably in my household with
my
chaos.  The three dogs I have now are all great with my kids and their
friends as well as the now 16 rescue kittens on my porch. Absolutely
must be.
So I use my knowledge base and intuition to evaluate for dogs with the
greatest likelihood to succeed. If/when I don't, and I have made poor
choices, I take the responsibility and find appropriate homes.  I'm
happy to
say the matches I've made have all worked out very very well.

Then of course there are the dogs from well bred litters and everything
is
right on the money as far as socialization, diet, interaction,
training, that
just have some glitch in their wiring that make them untenable as
stable
pets. That too happens in human development.  Something went wrong in
the
kitchen when the soup was being made.

The whole topic of social/emotional not to mention physical development
absolutely fascinates me.

Thanks for bringing up an interesting topic.

Regards,

Rachel Friedman, MSW, LISW
A Better Pet LLC
www.abetterpet.com
zenasmom@aol.com
Cleveland, Ohio

If you belong to yahoogroup.com DogRead read about dog terminology.  Or, join!  It's a very informative group!

CANINE TERMINOLOGY by Harold Spira

Enter supporting content here