An unusual disease! Be ware!
After our dog getting tetanus, I read and remember...just in case it happens to us!
Hi this is a tad long but informative - was on an all breeds list. > > SEEN A SLUG LATELY??? > > > By Janet Ainscow > > > I could have chosen a different title for this article, but I want to > get your attention. If you own a dog and have a garden, please read on. > If you have seen slugs or snails in your garden, you MUST read this case > report. > > > Holly was a normal, healthy, sound 10-week-old female Samoyed puppy, > wormed and immunized, typically full of life and playful, inquisitive, like > any normal Sam pup. That was until she was 10 weeks and 2 days old, and I > shall detail her daily journal to hell. > > > Wednesday - I came home from work, let her out of her kennel and > noted she had left her breakfast. She had always been a good eater, and I > remarked to my husband I thought Holly must be a bit "off colour". Apart from > that she appeared normal. She was bathed in Asuntol that night and blow-dried, > as we have paralysis tick in our area. > > > Thursday - She had let most of her breakfast, eaten a little. I got > her out to give her some lead training and noted she was a little stiff in > the rear gait, very slightly cow-hocked, just something amiss. I became > alarmed when I turned a corner and she just fell over for no apparent reason. I > put her up on the table and examined her. She screamed in pain when I pressed > on her spine in the lumbar region. I rang my Vet. We assumed she may have > hurt herself playing with the other dogs and she commenced injections of > Metacam(anti-inflammatory, analgesic) that night. > > Friday - She was more cow-hocked and a lot stiffer in the hind legs. She could no longer carry her tail over her back. She cried in pain if I picked her up. She had eaten her food that day; the Metacam would have given her pain relief. She had another injection of Metacam that night. > Saturday pm - She was in much pain, but had eaten. She cried when she walked, and I was concerned she had a fracture. She had her spine and pelvis X-rayed that night. Her temperature when taken by the Vet was 40.7 C. No abnormalities were detected from the X-rays. The Vet diagnosed a possible spinal abscess due to her temperature and lumbar pain. She was > prescribed > Rilexine antibiotics with the Metacam injections to continue for pain > relief. > > > Sunday - she was semi-paralysed in the hindquarters. I could help her > to > stand, but she had no control of her hind feet and could only drag > them > behind her. She was in a lot of pain. Her ears, which had been erect, > had > both fallen down. By that evening I was on the verge of ringing the > Vet to > have her put to sleep to relieve her suffering. I hesitated because > it was > Sunday night. I made up a hot pack and sat her on my lap with the > heat on > her back hoping it may bring some relief to her back pain. Her > temperature > was 39.4. > > > Monday morning she could only get to her feet and stand with help. I > rang > the Vet and told her Holly was much worse and needed more pain relief. > During our conversation the Vet suggested as an off chance, maybe she > had > RAT LUNG WORM. > > > I went to work and immediately consulted both the Vets I work with. > One an > Equine Vet had never heard of the disease, the other had no idea of > the > exact symptoms. We got on the Internet and searched but not much joy. > I > could not find the symptoms in canines. Out of frustration, I rang a > former > colleague at the University Vet School and discussed Holly's > symptoms. She > immediately said RAT LUNG WORM and told me I had to get Holly into the > clinic ASAP. Temperature was 39.3 > > > Tuesday 9.00 AM. Holly was examined at the University clinic. Her > temperature was normal, 38.5, but she had all the symptoms of this > disease. > She had a general anaesthetic and a CSF tap was preformed (removal of > Cerebral Spinal Fluid). This was examined by the University > laboratory. By > 1.00 pm I received a phone call to confirm she had indeed contracted > RAT > LUNG WORM. > > > So what is RAT LUNG WORM? If you are like me, you have probably never > heard > of this parasitic disease. It is a normal parasite in Rats, just like > roundworm is to dogs. Infected Rats pass eggs in their faeces, which > in turn > are consumed by slugs and snails, which act as an intermediate host > for the > larvae. The Rat in turn eats the snail, and the cycle is complete. > > > Puppies, as we all know, will eat anything. Eating an infected slug, > or even > eating vegetation with a snail trail on it from an infected slug, can > cause > infection. The larvae progresses through the gut right through the > body and > takes up residence INSIDE the spinal cord where it turns into a worm. > This > causes havoc and explains the progressive hind limb paralysis and > extreme > pain in the lumbar region. > > > Treating the disease is not all that simple either. Giving the dog a > suitable anthelmintic like Ivermectin, which will kill both worm and > larvae, > has proven unsatisfactory. A dead worm within the spinal cord causes > even > more damage. > > > The prescribed treatment is a high dose of cortico-steriods to combat > the > spinal cord damage. The worm has to make it's own way out and > hopefully into > to gut to be passed out. There is extreme danger the worm will > migrate and > lodge in the brain. This is lethal. > > > Holly was given a massive dose of cortico-steriods while still under > anaesthetic on Tuesday morning. The Vet was only going to shave about > 1 > square inch off the back of her neck for the spinal tap, but the > nurses had > got her ready and shaved enough of her neck for a clean be-heading! > So she > needs a wig, at least we have a diagnosis. > > > Wednesday - less then 24 hours after her initial treatment, I was > delighted > to she Holly standing in her kennel, both ears pricked and tail > wagging. I > opened her gate and she took off at a gallop with her ungainly gate, > but I > had trouble catching her. She is on a high dose of Prednislone now > until she > is back to normal. Which way the worm migrates is in the hands of > Mother > Nature now. Most general practitioners do not recognize the symptoms > in the > early stages. > > > This article is a warning to everyone. Eliminate rats, snails, slugs > from > your dog's environment. We are starting a baiting programme now for > slugs > and snails. Unfortunately we cannot eliminate the native rats that > pop over > the fence. We have permanent bait stations in and around the house > where the > dogs cannot reach. If you feed your dogs raw vegetables, wash it > thoroughly. > Humans are also susceptible to this disease. > > >>
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"Carol Whitney" <cwhitney@islandnet.com> | This is Spam | Add to Address Book |
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Fri, 14 Feb 2003 12:25:40 -0800 |
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[CSDogBookReview] A Dog's Real Needs [soon to be revised] | |
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A Dog's Real Needs
Last revised Mon 06 May, 2002 09:42:12 Carol Whitney, Ph.D., Sooke, B.C., Canada / Coherent Dog Professional Member, Canadian Association of Professional Pet Dog Trainers
Dogs need to feel safe and secure, and to feel able to trust their Caretakers and Guides - that's us. When we adopt dogs, we become their Caretakers and Guides. In effect, we hold our dogs captive, so we are responsible for meeting the needs they can't themselves meet without our help. Here's a list of needs that every dog has (may be added to by anybody).
We need to meet these needs on a reasonable schedule for the dog, so that none goes unmet long enough to cause a problem for the dog, and therefore, for the Caretaker and Guide as well.
Notice that I put social feedback the very first - without social feedback, the animal dies inside. For the companion dog, social feedback is two-way communication between dog and owner. Notice that means the communication is, in whatever way, understood by each.
The popular literature now available about dogs and their behavior that is very helpful includes the works of Jean Donaldson, especially, her book _The Culture Clash_, and by Turid Rugaas, whose book and videos on calming signals and dog-body-language give us the ability to read what our dogs are telling us. For extra insight into dogs at various stages of growth and development, I recommend the book _Dogs_, by Raymond and Lorna Coppinger, 2001.
The dog-needs we need to meet every day include:
1) Social feedback (includes pack (family) membership: being with owner); 2) A place to be: a den and surrounding home; 3) Water, food, shelter, protection from the elements; 4) Attention to grooming and medical care; touch; 5) At least adequate mental stimulation and rest time; 6) At least adequate physical exercise and rest time.
Additional comments: Until all a dog's real needs are met, the dog is in a position where it has to try to meet them itself. The most essential foundation-training - training salient to the dog -is that of teaching the dog that all its real needs will be met, and, of course, that's done by meeting them, and by cueing the dog so that it can recognize the process of needs-meeting.
Putting a dog on a fairly orderly schedule, and making rituals out of the schedule, giving the dog cues about what human action or verbal cue, in what environment, indicates, "Now we are going to do this," helps a dog comprehend that its needs are now about to be met. The actual meeting of the needs builds a dog's confidence in the relationship with its humans.
These principles are the essence of what underlies programs that are variously called "Nothing In Life Is Free," "No Free Lunch," "Leading The Dance" (by Sue Ailsby), and similar ones.
Fri, 14 Feb 2003 12:25:35 Carol Whitney, Sooke, B.C., Canada
What to do in an emergency!
Ten Things You Need to Know to Prepare Your Dog for a Disaster (Taken from "Dogs For Dummies," by Gina Spadafori, Copyright 1996 by Wiley Publishing)
For pet owners faced with a flood, fire, hurricane, earthquake, or other crisis, disaster experts are all of one mind on what to do:
Take your pets with you.
While animals are not allowed in disaster-relief shelters, an increasing number of animal shelters and veterinarians are better prepared now than ever before to take in animals during an emergency.
In fact, a model program started by the California Veterinary Medical Association has a veterinarian in place in each county to help coordinate animal-relief efforts. Other states are starting to see the light, too, with veterinarians, shelter groups, and specially trained disaster teams from the Sacramento, Calif., based United Animal Nations are prepared to do for animals what the Red Cross does for people.
Why all the changes? A growing realization that animals need help, too, and that some people choose to put their lives in danger rather than abandon their pets.
So take your pets. Also take their food, leashes, medicines, blankets, and carriers if told to evacuate.
You do can do better, still, if you plan ahead. Here are some tips from disaster-planning experts.
1. Have a Plan
Prepare for all possibilities, including the possibility that you may be away from home when disaster strikes. Make sure that everyone in your family - children, too! - is prepared in the event of an emergency. Make a plan and go over it until everyone knows what to do.
People need to rely on each other during emergencies, and this is just as true when it comes to your pets. Get to know your neighbors, and put a plan in place to help each other out. Find out from local shelters and veterinary organizations what their emergency response plans are and how you fit into them in case of a disaster.
2. Know What Your Veterinarian's Plans Are
Ask your veterinarian if he has a disaster plan, and how he plans to fit in with other veterinarians in an emergency. If he has never thought of it, pushing him a little on the subject won't hurt. If he has no interest, consider changing vets or exploring back-up care for your dog from someone who is more tapped in.
3. Maintain Your Pet's Permanent and Temporary ID
Most animals will survive a disaster. But too many will never see their families again without a way to determine which pet belongs to which family. That's why pets should always wear a collar and identification tags. Better still is permanent identification that can't slip off, such as a tattoo or imbedded microchip.
Keep temporary ID tags at hand, too, to put on your pet if you're forced to evacuate.(Your pet's permanent ID isn't of much use if you can't be home to answer the phone.) One of the easiest: Key tags on which you can jot a current number, slip into a plastic housing, and then attach to your pet's collar.
4. Keep Vaccinations -- and Records -- Current
Infectious diseases can be spread from dog to dog through floodwaters, which is why keeping pets' vaccinations up-to-date is essential. Kennel cough, although not serious, is common in sheltering situations and also preventable through vaccinations.
Prepare a file with up-to-date medical and vaccination records, your pets' microchip or tattoo numbers, your veterinarian's phone number and address, feeding and medication instructions, and recent pictures of your animals. Trade copies of emergency files with another pet- loving friend -- it's a good idea for someone else to know about your pet should anything happen to you.
5. Have Restraints Ready
Even normally obedient dogs can behave rather strangely when stressed by an emergency. Consequently, you should be prepared to restrain your pet - for his safety and the safety of others.
Keep leashes and carriers ready for emergencies. Ready means at hand - - the means to transport your pet shouldn't be something you have to find and pull from the rafters. Harnesses work better than collars at keeping panicky pets safe.
Shipping crates are probably the least-thought-of pieces of emergency equipment for pet owners - but are among the most important. Sturdy crates keep pets safe and give rescuers more options in housing pets. They give you more options, too, in the homes of friends or relatives, or in shelters outside of the area.
Depending on weather conditions, crated pets may also be safely left overnight in vehicles.
Another item to keep on hand is a muzzle, because frightened and injured dogs are more likely to bite.
6. Rotate a Supply of Food, Water, and Medications
Keep several days' worth of food and safe drinking water as well as any necessary medicines packed and ready to go in the event of a disaster. Rotate your supplies so they do not get stale. If your pet eats canned food, be sure to keep an extra can opener and spoon tucked in among the emergency supplies.
7. Keep First Aid Supplies on Hand -- with Directions
Pet-supply stores sell ready-made first aid kits, or you can put your own together fairly easily. You can find the ingredients of a good basic kit elsewhere in this book.
Keep a first aid book with your supplies, but give the book a quick read before you store it. Veterinarian Michelle Bamberger's "Help! The Quick Guide to First Aid for Your Dog" (Howell) is one that's well organized and easy to follow.
Pet-Pak, Inc., manufactures animal first-aid kits in five sizes, all neatly packed in a plastic container (the four largest have handles). The kit contains the basics for emergency care, along with a pamphlet on using the supplies. For information, contact the company at P.O. Box 982, Edison, NJ 08818-0982; (908) 906-9200.
8. Know the Locations of Other Veterinary Hospitals - and Animal Shelters
Your veterinary hospital may be damaged in the disaster, which is why having some back-up plans for boarding and care is good. Know where other veterinary hospitals are, as well as animal shelters and animal- control facilities in your area.
9. Keep a "Lost Dog" Kit Ready
In case of a disaster, you probably won't be able to get flyers printed up, so make up some generic ones and keep them with your emergency supplies. In the biggest type size you can, center the words: "LOST DOG," along with a clear picture of your dog. Then below, provide a description of your dog, including any identifying marks, and a space to add the phone number where you can be reached, along with any back-up contacts, friends, relatives, neighbors, or your veterinarian. Print a hundred copies and keep them in a safe place.
A staple-gun allows you to post your notices; keep one loaded and with your supplies along with thumbtacks and electrical tape.
If your dog becomes lost, post flyers in your neighborhood and beyond, and distribute them at veterinary hospitals and shelters. While relying on the kindness of strangers is nice, offering a reward makes many strangers just a little bit kinder.
10. Be Prepared to Help Others
You may be lucky to survive a disaster nearly untouched, but others in your community won't be so fortunate. Contact your local humane society and veterinary organization now to train as a volunteer so you can help out in a pinch. Disaster-relief workers do everything from distributing food to stranded animals to helping reunite pets with their families - and helping find new homes for those who need them.
Volunteering in a pinch is not only a good thing to do - it's the right thing for anyone who cares about animals and people.
I'm adding another dog to my pack, I'm concerned!
Treshell quoted > On page 118 under boldness and getting a new dog when you already have a shy dog... The new dog must be bold, happy and well-adjusted... Just as a shy dog can pick up positive responses to new situations from a bold dog, she can pick up fearful reactions from another shy dog.
Further in this section Deborah has thoughts on size, gender, and age, as well. When we added a second dog to our household (Dot, about 10 months ago) we got a bitch puppy - who has turned out to be pushy and self-confident in ways both wonderful and aggravating (any other BC bitch owners out there? <BG>). While her boldness was a bit overwhelming for Jake (then 1-1/2 yo), we've used her personality to "show" him something / someone isn't so scary. By the same token, as Dot has gone through the typical puppy fear periods, Jake has been able to "show" her that something is no big deal.
Had we brought a second shy, or even a soft, dog into our home, this wouldn't have been possible.
- Leonore & co. 2 boys, 2 dogs, 2 snakes, 1 cat, and counting... (it's a starter set) No. California
Suggestions on how to stop submissive peeing!
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Wed, 5 Feb 2003 01:15:02 EST |
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Re: [DogRead] How to catch the shy dog? |
What I learned today to help my dog when visitors come to the door!
Message: 2 Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:51:18 -0000 From: "lucyjane_98 < lwacksman@hotmail.com>" < lwacksman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: how to greet strangers? Cheryl, Thanks so much for the tips! I think we for SURE will try this. Sydney is super food motivated. We had heard about the "place" (boundary) command, but weren't sure how to accomplish this along with the door b/c of her adreneline rush! Maybe we can get a cheapy bathroom mat so it'll be easy for her to distinguish her "spot". :D Yay, something to work on now! Thanks, Lucy --- In ClickerSolutions@yahoogroups.com, "Cheryl Jarvis <professorcj@y...>" <professorcj@y...> wrote: > Hi Lucy - > > I think the key with Sydney is to give her *another* job to do rather than guarding the door, and to change her emotional reaction to people coming in the door. The barking will take care of itself once that's done. I've got a fear aggressive dog too, and we found a great solution to just the problem you've described. > > First, a task to replace guarding the door - we allow Brady to bark once or twice when the bell rings to alert us, then she must go to a spot on a rug at a distance from the door and hold a down-stay until we release her. The distance from the door is critical - the physical distance helps reduce the adrenaline rush that comes from feeling threatened, and eliminates the potential for a bite should someone suddenly try to reach for her despite me telling them not to! > > How we accomplished this was to keep a jar of her best-ever most- > favorite stinkiest treats by the designated "down" spot (use a mat or rug so she can clearly distinguish her boundaries for the behavior), and when the doorbell rang and she barked we'd interrupt her by singing out happily "oh boy someone's at the door" and running to that spot (she'd automatically follow if we ran! <g>) and getting out a handful of treats and absolutely *shoveling* treats as the door was opened until it was closed. This takes two people to manage - one has to be handling the dog while the other handles the door. You might also want to have a leash on her to help you keep her in place (just step on it and keep it short enough to keep her where you want her) > so that you can reward her for being there. It also goes faster if you have a third person to do multiple "setups" by ringing the doorbell at various times during the day. > > Someone on this list once used the phrase "She can't pump adrenaline if she's pumping saliva" (Laura, possibly?) and I just love that. This is pure classical conditioning - changing her associations with strangers at the door from something scary to something wonderful. > In addition, it's giving her a task to do that's appropriate - she's really *not* in charge of guarding the door! - and a down-stay is also a calming task that will help her control her emotional and physical reactions to the excitement. > > I've found now that Brady often forgets to even bark once - she's too > busy hustling to get to her spot so she can get her treats! Once I didn't hear the bell and just happened to walk through the living room and noticed Brady in her spot looking very eager, so I looked out the door and there was the UPS guy! As she improved, we no longer had to shovel treats - she now gets one great treat after the door is closed, as a reward for the complete behavior. Halloween was a joy this year, for everybody involved! She got a gazillion treats and didn't scare one small child by barking! > > Hope this helps.... > > Cheryl & Brady ("did I hear the doorbell? oh boy!")
To build confidence in your dog, try a wrap!
I really like Anxiety Wraps, and wouldn't be without them now. I've used them for about 3 years for a host of different applications. I initially wanted it for my thunderphobic, sensitive dog, and this was the first application for it. Though it did not stop all reactivity, it significantly increased the dog's comfort level to the point where he could go out for a walk while it was getting ready to storm, something he normally could not do. He would go belly down, refuse to move. With the wrap on, he'll walk willingly--his tail is not up, and you can see signs of stress, but they are minimal compared to the rapid panting, glazed eyes, the shut-down he used to have. And, once home from a walk, we let him remain in the Anxiety Wrap all night, and this keeps him from pacing the house or trying to crawl inside our skin. With the wrap on, he'll find a spot on the bed and stay there, or will go to his soft dog bed and fall asleep.
I then used it for a rescue dog who had been horribly abused, plus had some kind of neurological problems and was a biter. Worse, he gave no warnings before he bit. He could be leaning into you enjoying being petted, then just swivel his head and nail the hand petting him. Once, he was given a low dose of prozac prescribed by the veterinary behaviorist and he had an adverse reaction to it, became totally agitated, biting at everything including his crate. We were able to get an AW on him, and that relaxed him JUST enough that we could walk him for the next 6 hours constantly to allow it to run its course. Without the AW, he was biting at the lead, and wouldn't even walk. With the AW on, he walked and ceased to fight the leash. It was a Godsend that night.
I used it with my adolescent puppies, when they got the "puppy zoomies"---usually about midnight when my husband and I were trying to go to sleep. With the AW on, the puppies would quiet down immediately and go to sleep.
I then used it for training sessions with the adolescents, as I upped the criteria by adding distractions. The AW was fantastic for helping the puppy focus better, maintain that focus, and ignore the distractions.
I used it for my very effervescent young adult dog who had to go through two orthopedic rear leg surgeries, and the AW immensely helped the restlessness and moving about constantly while the legs were healing.
Once healed, I used the AW with this same very effervescent dog, to help him to tone down his enthusiasm just enough that he could offer behaviors without pawing me and talking to me constantly during shaping sessions. It offered him a bit of body awareness, and that was all that was needed to help this boy calm down just enough that learning could happen much easier.
I now use the AW for rear work shaping, because it again helps the dogs to focus and have some body-awareness, and hence, focus on the rear leg movements, which are very difficult for my dogs to do, since they are service dogs, and basically very front paw oriented.
I think it's a wonderful product, especially when combined with clicker training, t-touch, and incremental desensitization. I see it as a very helpful adjunct for training, for relaxation exercises during stress-filled times, and especially for those adolescent dogs you wish came with an "off" button sometimes. <G>
I have two Anxiety Wraps, different sizes, but none small enough to use on the tiny puppies, so for the little ones I just use the wide Ace Elastic Bandages, with the velcro on the ends. I do figure-eight wrapping around the body and chest. I see the very same effect from wrapping with an Ace bandage. However, the advantage to me of the AW is that it doesn't LOOK like the dog has been injured if you are working out in public. It just looks like the dog has a jacket on. The Ace bandage always elicits many questions about the dog's health.
Oh! Forgot--right now I'm using the wrap for my elder service dog, while teaching him to stand up on hind legs and "walk" a very large therapy ball around the room for his AAT sessions, where he'll be pushing the ball to patients who are learning to bend forward and push with new muscles. The dog goes across the room to fetch the big ball, "walking" it back to the patient. The AW has really helped the dog to maintain focus on walking that ball, so I now put him in it for each short teaching session. We just did it last week for the first time without the wrap, and in the rehab setting, and he did great!
I think it's a terrific product, though pricey. And they wear very well--I wash mine about once a week, or sometimes even more often, and it still looks like new. It's 3 years old. Wonderful material, very well made! And Susan Sharpe, the woman who developed the product, is also a clicker trainer. I not only like the product very much, but love supporting other clicker trainers' businesses!
Debi Davis Tucson AZ
In a message dated 12/27/2002 9:38:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, cmbrust@juno.com writes:
> Help. My sister has two dogs, they would like them in house. But, the > dogs dribble when someone pets them. Even their own family members. Can this be worked on? > Sure. Family members need to learn how to interact with the dogs in a non-intimidating body language. I don't mean to imply they are intimidating them on purpose, but everything about a normal, polite human greeting is rude and intimidating in the dog world. Direct approach, direct eye contact, reaching over the head, bending over... these are all very dominant messages in the canine dictionary. Dogs who are on the submissive side tend to react to nromal human greetings with appeasing gestures, including submissive urination.
Teach your family to greet the dogs very calmly, turning sideways, not making eye contact, and kneeling down rather than bending over to pet the dogs. Also, have them scratch the dogs under the chin instead of patting on top of the head.
If a dribble does happen, make *no* reaction. Any verbal or physical reaction or correction will just make it worse.
When untrained visitors come over, be sure the dogs have just been out to empty their bladders, and if possible, let visitors greet them outdoors.
How old are the dogs?
"Fostering harmony between the human and non-human animals of our world, and promoting a philosophy of respect for life."
Pat Miller, CPDT Peaceable Paws PO Box 5817 Chattanooga, TN 37406 www.peaceablepaws.com
Author, The Power of Positive Dog Training" Training Editor, The Whole Dog Journal President, Association of Pet Dog Trainers Vice President, Friends of Chattanooga Animal Services APDT Member #1238P, exp. 12/03
Thoughts on Animal Communication
I took a workshop on animal communication and though I did not personally like the animal psychic who led it, I did find that by the end of the workshop I was able to pick up things from the animals they had there, things I could not have known that were explained by the owners (especially two alpacas). I know many people won't believe the experiences, but it wasvery real to me.
This lady did teach that we humans do all have the ability to do this, that animals often communicate with each other this way, and as she put it, they "feel sorry for us" that we have lost this ability. It is a practice thing and an openness thing.
Trevor has learned some things that I have never actively taught him. Also, on field walks, I may have a walk planned out in my head and a lot of the time he knows without direction from me which way to go. I can only assume that he is picking up on my visual images of the planned walk (which is basically how we learned to communicate--with images). I have also learned to trust him a lot in selecting the paths within the big route because I have a tendency to get us stuck in thickets or places that are more challenging than I wanted. When I was still in the "alpha mode" I used to be the Big Cheese saying we're going THIS WAY just to make the point. All I did is prove myself to be an idiot. Now I choose the grand route but often go along with his choice of how to go within that route.
I don't practice as much as I should, but I definitely don't have qualms about believing something I "just feel." The facilitator talked about how kids are much better at this than we grownups who have suppressed our abilities--if the kid says Spot has a stomach ache, probably Spot does. I think it can only enhance the outward training that we try to do. She was very clear that animals don't necessarily do what you want just because you communicate it, they still may choose to ignore us or disregard. It does not give control over the animal, just more communication.
Even if it makes me a flake, I believe. Even if we don't like the psychic, it doesn't make the phenomenon any less important. Anne M
----- Original Message ----- From: <howdeeeyall@aol.com> To: <peaceablepaws@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 10:41 AM Subject: Re: [peaceablepaws] Re: Pet Psychic
Joan, I agree with you. I've never seen the pet psychic on TV, but I've had a few experiences with a genuine animal communicator, and she too told me things that my pets knew and she couldn't. She even expressed things in language that sounded like the individual animals. I'm sure they were "talking" to her and she was hearing pretty well.
I think that this is a skill that anyone can learn, but some of us are much more ready to do it than others, and need a lot less work to attain the skill. Our culture discourages any use of intuition from the time we are babies, and most of us have long ago closed off that sense. We can learn to open it up again. The local animal communicator teaches classes.
I think we probably are somewhat intuitive at times with the animals who live with us, but we are not very aware of it. Judith
In a message dated 12/19/2002 9:20:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, teddybsmom@cox.net writes:
Though I am no major fan of the pet psychic on TV, I do sometimes work with a woman who is a pet communicator. When we first met, I was totally skeptical on this. After her first meeting with Teddy, my opinion totally changed. She told me things that there was no way she could have known.
Before the holidays!
Possible Holiday solution till you can get to a vet in case of an accident. eindy
COTTON BALL REMEDY What do you do if your puppy (or mischievous older dog) gets into your holiday decorations and eats some of the glass ornaments? This potentially lethal mishap can darken even the brightest holiday season. > THE PROCEDURE:
BEFORE the holiday go to a pharmacy and buy a box of cotton balls. Be sure that you get COTTON balls...not the cosmetic puffs that are made from man-made fibers. Also, buy a quart of half-and-half coffee cream and put it in the freezer. Should your dog eat glass ornaments. Defrost the half-and-half and pour some in a bowl. Dip cotton balls into the cream and feed them to your dog. Dogs under 10 lbs should eat 2 balls which you have first torn into smaller pieces. Dogs 10-50 lbs should eat 3-5 balls and larger dogs should eat 5-7. You may feed larger dogs an entire cotton ball at once. > Dogs seem to really like these strange treats and eat them readily. As the cotton works its way through the digestive tract it will find all the glass pieces and wrap itself around them. Even the teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibers and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage by the glass. Your dog's stools will be really weird for a few days and you will have to be careful to check for fresh blood or a tarry appearance to the stool. If either of the latter symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a checkup but, in most cases, the dogs will be just fine. > An actual experience: I can personally vouch for the cotton ball treatment. While I was at the vet waiting for him to return from lunch a terrified woman ran in with a litter of puppies who had demolished a wooden crate along with large open staples. The young vet had taken x-rays which did show each of the puppies had swallowed several open staples. He was preparing them for surgery when my wonderful vet came in and said no surgery. I watched him wet several cotton balls, squeeze out the water and pop them down their throats. Within 24 hours every staple was accounted for. This was a lesson I learned in the mid-1960s and have had to use several times on my brats. I wet the cotton balls and smear on some liverwurst and they bolt it down and ask for more. The cotton always comes out with the object safely embedded.
Crossposting WITH permission from vaccine list.
Interesting!
Dear Sir
Having recently been involved as an Expert Witness in a vaccine related court case I would like to express my concern at the lack of knowledge with which we are debating vaccine related issues.
I would like to draw attention to the fact that the American Association of Feline Practitioners, the American Animal Hospital Association, Council on Biologics and Therapeutic Agents and all 27 Veterinary Schools in North America are in the process of changing their recommended protocols for vaccinating cats and dogs. Knowledge about immunity with respect to vaccination has improved greatly over the past five years (1). In making these changes the following points have been focused on,
-When an annual booster vaccination with a modified live viral vaccine is given to a previously vaccinated adult dog, no added protection is provided. -Modified live virus vaccines depend on the replication of the virus for a response. -Antibodies from previous vaccines do not allow the new virus to replicate. -Antibody titres are not boosted, more memory cells are not induced. -No additional protection is provided. -There is no scientific data to support label directions for re administration of MLV vaccines annually. -Vaccines are not harmless. Unnecessary side effects and adverse events can be minimised by avoiding unnecessary vaccinations. -The emphasis should be on safety and no medicine should be given more frequently, longer, or at a higher dose than is necessary.
All of the above points are relevant to UK practice, as Professor Richard Ford stated at the BSAVA Vaccine Symposium 2000, "this is a global issue." For those practitioners convinced that they have never seen an adverse event post vaccination, the following mechanisms may be involved (2),
-Contamination with extraneous agents -Residual virulence of vaccine organisms -Vaccination of an immunosuppressed animal -Immune suppression induced by the vaccine -Excessive induction of cytokine release -Multiple vaccines administered concurrently -Hypersensitivity to vaccine antigens Type I Â immediate type Type II Â cytotoxic type Type III Â immune complex type Type IV Â delayed type
-Triggering or exacerbation of hypersensitivity to nonvaccine antigens Allergies Autoimmune disease -Induction of neoplastic changes
Until we know what constitutes an adverse reaction post vaccination we are unlikely to acknowledge one, let alone report it through the SAERS. A group of researchers at Purdue University, Department of Veterinary Pathobiology and Veterinary Clinical Sciences are investigating the effect of vaccination on dogs in a series of experimental studies(3). One of their early studies has concluded that vaccination of dogs using a routine protocol and commonly used vaccines, induces autoantibodies.
In the UK the only information we have had with respect to vaccine issues has come through the National Office of Animal Health, a briefing document following the 1998 World in Action programme. Compiled by David Sutton, head of veterinary services at Intervet in his role as Chairman of the Companion Animal Vaccine Group and endorsed by the BSAVA Scientific Committee. A comfortable symbiotic relationship seems to have developed here. If 'Standard Veterinary Practice' is the only defense we have for our current vaccination protocols then the honesty and integrity of our profession is at risk. Yours sincerely
Lyn J Thomson MRCVS
Lynn,
It looks like you got the most out of going to a match!! Realizing how to prepare!! Here are some ideas for those of you just starting to show: First!!!!! Make a lst of all the things you will need to take.Start this list about a week before the show, that way as things pop into yourmind, you can write them down. 2. Pack your car/van the day or night BEFORE you leave for the show. That way you won't be rushed last minute (or at least maybe just a little!) 3 Always have these items in your van, that way you won't forget them,I have 2 or more of lots of items for this reason: umbrella, rain coat, rain boots ,change of clothes,t-shirt, sweat-shirt,long pants and shorts , and dry under-wear,extra sets of socks and shoes.(my show shoes are always in the van, not my closet)That way I ALWAYS drive home dry and comfortable, and prepared for any change of weather. 4.Take a cooler for drinks, liver or treats for bait, and some snacks for you, show food is usually expensive, and doesn't taste great. (cut fruit and triscuits with dip are 2 of my favorites, along with power bars) 5. Grooming bag, with show leads and collars, and make sure you have a spare. Spray bottles, hairdryer, mousse,or chalk if needed, I got a GREAT shammy at Walmart, stays wet, good for cooling down on a hot day, or keeping thick coats in check and smooth before entering the ring. 6. Water buckets for crates so dogs always have access to water, and won't spill them like a bowl. 7. Put premium in your car the night before with the directions, and also a map. 8.A cooler with water for both you and your dogs. 9 Baggies to cleanup after your dogs. I hope this helps, and if someone can add,I'd like to hear some more!!!
Regards from sunny Wellborn,Florida USA Eileen Madrigale
386-963-1004 Wagons Ho Border Collies and Aust. Shep's. Panda AX AXJ AAD(retired) CH.Dreamer NA NAJ AD, Ch.Jillaroo, Ch.Brumby,Ch.Dinkum, New Ch.Devlin, and Szoom (Jillaroo and Brumby are beginning their agility careers) http://community.webtv.net/wagonsho/WagonsHoBorder
Ring Worm
Ringworm is a skin condition of cats and dogs that is caused by a fungus. This condition is not caused by a "worm", it just picked up the slang term of "ringworm". This fungus is capable of spreading from animal to animal, animal to human, and human to animal. Because of this, anytime a pet is suspected of possibly having "ringworm", it is important to evaluate the pet thorougly, rule out other possibilities, and run a test to verify if ringworm exists.
Ringworm is treatable and this can be achieved by use of special shampoos, oral medication, and/or topical medications. What is used for your pet may depend on the severity of the infestation. If your pet does have ringworm, it is important to take care of it right away. You should also notify your personal physician in case you yourself may need medication to use personally.
Keep in mind that just because your pet has ringworm does not mean that you will contract it and it does not mean that if you do contract it, that it came from your pet. The scenario could be the opposite. In fact, your pet and yourself may have picked it up individually from an outside source. Because of this, it is important not to jump to conclusions.
The only true reliable method to diagnose ringworm is by culturing the fungus. A wood's lamp is helpful in screening for the fungus but it is maybe 50-60% effective in definitively diagnosing the condition. When culturing for the fungus, results might not be available for 2-3 weeks. Because of this, treatment for ringworm may be instituted in the mean time depending on history and presentation of the pet.
It is very important to remember that many skin conditions of dogs and cats can look the same until diagnostic tests are run to distinguish between them. If you have questions about ringworm or any other skin condition, you can call de la Houssaye Animal Hospital and we would be happy to discuss them with you.
The above information is not meant to definitively diagnose a condition. It is only meant to help educate pet owners and we encourage them to seek professional assistance if needed.
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From: |
"Wendy Dreyer" <arboaussie@home.com> | |
Date: |
Thu, 05 Apr 2001 21:30:44 -0400 |
Subject: |
Re: [ClickTeach] where am I going wrong? | |
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Hi Jan, When I start training a new dog first I train each behavior in each room of the house. Then I step outside the front door(dog on leash) and train, then outside the back door. Then I might go out onto the driveway or sidewalk, then maybe across the street. Then I train in front of each house on my street, or maybe everyother house. Get the picture? Slowly change the location (context). At each new place I lower the criteria basically back to the beginning, so the dog has success. Each time I change location the training gets faster and faster, as the dog generalizes the lessons from place to place and finally figures out that he/she can do this behavior (eye contact, targetting, sit, down, heel, stay, whatever!) anyplace we happen to be. Then, take your training "on the road". Make a list of ten places you can go to train, and try to get to two per day. When I make my list I try to list them in a logical order for driving,and usually combine it with running errands. For example, I'll go to the Post Office and the sidewalk across the street from a grammar school because they are next to each other. Then I'll go to the pet store and the hardware store because they are across the street from each other. Then I'll go to a large shopping mall and work in front of every store there! That gets a lot of attention, with lots of opportunity to ask strangers to ask my dog to sit for treats. This is what I call "Taking it on the road". Set your dog up for success by moving in small steps, raising the criteria slowly, and reducing the criteria when you change the context. Is Dani correct in her assumption that you are letting your dog outside off leash and waiting for offered behaviors? If so, leash your dog! You can let the sniffing and exploring be a reward for a good training session *after* the training. Yours, Wendy
Wendy & Glenn Dreyer Arboretum Australian Shepherds 27 Dunbar Road Quaker Hill, CT 06375
Step 1.
Using two cloths, one blank and one with my scent, ask the dog to find my cloth with them both just out in front of him. He has a 50/50 chance of getting it right. If he sniffs the right one, c/t, if he sniffs the wrong one ignore. If he brings me the right one c/t and go potty, if he brings me the wrong one take it, don't give eye contact and wait for him to go find the other one. (of course they are both just in front of him).
Am I right so far? TERRY: Yes, but remember you are teaching scenting, not retrieving! Stand near the clothes when you first start.
I guess the idea is that clicking him for sniffing the right one teaches him what I am expecting him to do ie find the one with my scent on it.
Questions please:
What if dog doesn't get the idea that I want the one with my scent on it and is obviously just picking any cloth? TERRY: You might want to put your scent on both cloths, then he is never wrong. Then switch to one of each!
What if dog brings back incorrect cloth then just stands and looks at me and doesn't go back for the other one? TERRY: I would circle around the other one slowly. Make sure you have a toy or treat that the dog really likes. When mine slows down, I bring out her favourite teddy. Be patient & wait. You may have to go back to just tossing one out by itself, keep it fun.
Am I doing the work for him, when he advances will he not just wait for me to confirm to him he is sniffing the one I want before deciding if he should bring that one in? TERRY: I would then encourage him to take it; if he sees you running backwards, he should want to bring it too you. I would delay the click to different intervals of the return. Start, middle & sit in front!
When do I know he is ready to do without the click when he sniffs the right one, if I have clicked in the past then I withhold the click and he is sniffing the right one, will he then think its incorrect because there was not click? The above exercise should solve this problem. You might have to click the pickup as well. Don't be deterred or discouraged if he drops it for the treat.(Dog is not wrong) Delays for movement toward you will fix that problem.
Can I practice this in my living room too? then take it outside like the rest of the exercises? Make sure it's fairly fluent before moving around too much. Then YES, use every room in the house, upstairs,downstairs, garage, back & front porch etc.. Good Luck , Regards, Terry Terry The Dogman PYE CANINE ACADEMY Breeding, Training & Consulting MGRC, CAPPDT, CAOTJ Home of Timber, Otch, Cinder, CDX Nova, CDX & Duster, CD New Brunswick Can.
Message: 2 Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:53:30 EST From: Rafiki500@aol.comSubject: Re: Multiple Dog Households In a message dated 11/18/2002 11:30:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, hollylcraig@yahoo.com writes: > I truly believe that my elderly Bichon is still the Alpha in the house. Dear Holly, Hard as it often is for us to accept, it is the natural progression of things that elderly packmates often get knocked off their thrones by ambitious and vigorous younger pack members. The fact that you had to break it up, and you know the Wheaton can "make mincemeat" out of the geriatric Bichon is clear evidence that he is *not* the Alpha. I would put the Wheaton on a "Say Please" program, where she has to earn all privileges, and maintain a clear and calm structure in your household activities. I think you need to accept that your Bichon can't maintain his position, and simply insist on order in the pack - it is perfectly okay for you to gently and firmly let the Wheaton know what behaviors are acceptable and which are not, while at the same time recognizing that she is, or soon will be, queen bee. That said, you *must* protect your old guy by feeding him in a safe place and not letting him get in a situation where he could be attacked. As the Wheaton establishes herself, chances are, with his age-impaired functions, he either can't see her warning signals or can't move away quickly enough to suit her, and inadvertantly triggers the attacks by not being deferent enough for her liking. As for the crate, if she is only crated when you are gone, then crating is a reliable predictor of your long absence. Play crate games with her when you are home - toss a high value treat in the crate for her to get, and let her come right back out again. Sometimes let her stay in the crate with the door closed while you are home, and radmonly drop high value treats in to her. Give her deliciously stuffed Kongs in the crate so that going in the crate is a reliable predictor of *really good stuff*. Make the crate a *great* place to be! You also mention that she is very energetic. Exercise!!! Structured, tongue-dragging exercise 3-5 times a week can work wonders - or find a good doggie daycare in your area where she can play herself into exhaustion 3-5 times a week. I think with a little more structure and management you can get this worked out - to the relief of all!! "Fostering harmony between the human and non-human animals of our world, and promoting a philosophy of respect for life." Pat Miller, CPDT Peaceable Paws PO Box 5817 Chattanooga, TN 37406 www.peaceablepaws.com Author, The Power of Positive Dog Training" Training Editor, The Whole Dog Journal President, Association of Pet Dog Trainers Vice President, Friends of Chattanooga Animal Services APDT Member #1238P, exp. 12/03
11/10/02
Our shows are different from yours. This was a championship show and each breed has it's own judge and has roughly six or more classes for each sex. This was a gundog show so there were only HPR, Setters, Retrievers, Spaniels. The top dog and bitch get a challenge certificate and three of these won under three different judges makes the dog a champian. This is not as easy as it seems. At open shows we have 7 groups, Pastoral, Working, Terrier, Gundog, Toy, Hound, Utility. Usually some breeds will have a specialist judge but mostly a judge will judge the whole group. This means they judge all the breed classes in the group. Dogs which are champians compete in the open class and can also enter open shows. We don't have a special class for champs but do at some shows have a champ stakes class. Pat
I read the post regarding the juniors ,i presume the international final. All children use a dog from the U.K,each child has to nominate 3 breeds in order of preference,some breeds arent allowed to be used in the finals so it can limit the choices greatly for some competitors. Once the breed is arranged you meet it on the day with an hour or more to meet,practise & prepare. All the nations are suppose to have the same "meet your dog on the dog & not prior"rules.
When it first started you could arrange your own dog which was great & that is what my brother did when he won the title in 1987,so you new what dog you where getting ,how it showed etc etc as they know have so many nations it is different & you have no input.
The Australian finals have just be held & we train the winner so it is now time to put the thinking caps on as to what breed as a number of the breeds are showen so differently,groomed differently or are as boring as can be be(we have american bred Irish setters & the irish in england are very different can be a real shock if it isnt what your used to)so selecting a breed is quite hard. Michelle (australia)
I would also like to share with you what I'm learning about the GSP from what I'm reading. Come and read and share what you are also reading. This may include information from other countries and what's happening in the GSP world or other varieties of pointers and their accomplishments, or just simple brags about what you are doing.
Melissa and taylor asked for some Show-N-Go advice.
You gave me an opening for my "Show-N-Go" song.
If you even think you may want to compete "someday" start going to Show-N-Gos as soon as your dog has reasonable manners. It gives your dog an opportunity to be exposed to the show environment as a regular part of the training (rather than trying to lump the huge environment change at the end when you are really ready to compete). Also remember that Show-N-Gos are not trials and they are not even matches. There will not be any ribbons and no scores. A Show-N-Go is a training tool that simulates a show environment and lets you train through problems or check where you are in your training. Use it like a tool, not a test! (It took me two years to realize this!)
Now what to expect...
Unless you pre-entered, you will need to get there during the sign up time window. Leave the dog in the car (unless it is too hot) and go find the sign up table. Sign up for at least two runs (unless you are time limited).
Now you can get your crate, dog and other junk and find a comfy place to watch. (Make sure you have a good chair!) All the Utility and Open runs usually go before the Novice runs. Sometimes there are separate rings, but usually Novice will run last. (It could be an hour or two before Novice starts.)
Watch a couple of the Utility folks. They are not working on perfect performances. They are just working on the "tough" parts for their dogs. They have toys and treats in the ring.
Take a hint from these folk. Make a list of one or two things that you want to accomplish in the ring. Different ones for each run are fine. For example, I am going to a Show-N-Go next weekend. First run I want a good Figure 8. I will do the figure 8 more times than called and may stop at odd places or move extra fast and I plan on blasting out of the "fast post" and treat heavily. Second run, I want no lagging on the off lead heeling. I will carry treats and treat when he is actually forged a little. You may just want a few steps of attention, a good stand, or a nice recall. Plan how to get the behavior and how you will reward it.
Two or three dogs before your turn, make sure you dog has pottied and warm him up just a little. (Games, tug, eye contact, what ever works for you.)
When it is your turn, the stewards and "judge" will treat it just like a trial. The steward will bring you in the ring and the "judge" will ask if you are Ready. As a courtesy, I will tell them if I am going to do something besides what they call or if I would like a really long or really short heeling pattern. Stop and treat where ever you want. (You may not want to click, just use your word.) All the rest of the exercises will work the same way. Don't give up your leash if you don't want to. Don't want the judge to actually touch the dog during the stand, just tell them. Use a flexi for the recall (make sure you bring it to the stewards table before you go in) if you need it to guarantee success. Do what ever you need to make it a good experience for the dog. (Make sure you don't leave any treats in the ring.) You basically have bought about 6 minutes of ring time, to play with your dog in front of an audience.
As far as groups (sits and downs) go. Again you can leave your leash on or just not go all the way across the ring. Be aware that many people will correct their dogs for breaking and these dogs may "scream". (Don't value judge this, the corgi we train with is a screamer if you even look irritated with her.) If your dog is even a little sensitive to this either skip the groups this first time or walk quietly across the ring and treat your dog very heavily if a nearby dog breaks and that dog's handler is heading back to correct the dog. If you choose to skip the groups, make sure to tell a steward so they are not off looking for you.
Have fun, and try to keep a light attitude so your dog has a good time.
Sally W. and Smokey (Did mom say treats in the ring next weekend!?!) Newberg, OR
Cathi,
Morgan Spector's book "Clicker Training for Obedience" has a great section on the touch stick. (beginning on page 46)
The main points he makes are.... 1. don't get the dog used to sitting and touching the stick. add movement early on...step by step until you have strong following behavior.
2. use a collapsable touch stick to that it is easier to fade the stick to just a hand signal.
You asked how the dog knows whether it is being clicked for touching the stick or for the movement. Think of the stick as an extention of your hand... thus it becomes just an exaggerated hand signal.
Speaking of collapsable touch sticks...I found mine at the auto parts store. It is one of those telescoping magnets. Looks like a pen with a little round magnet on the end of it when closed...extends out to about 25 1/2".
To teach the begging behavior, hold the touch stick slightly above Ty's nose. Give him the touch cue. You may have to bounce the stick in the air a bit to get him to move. Click any upward motion and shape it from there. (I am teaching Sadie this as part of the "pop finish.") Gradually shorten the stick until it is just your hand making a upward arc of sorts...
The touch stick can be used to teach movement for "finish" "front" "heel" "down" "sit" "go outs" as well as agility and other sport moves.
I also like the way Morgan teaches the go out. Put the stick in the ground at gradually increasing distances from the dog. Keep the treat with you instead of putting it on the target. Send the dog to touch the stick and click at random distances. The dog has to stop and come back to you for the reward. Add the cue "away" or "go"...first just as he is about to touch the stick and then gradually say it sooner until you are giving the cue just before you send him out. (pg 51 and 213)
Hope this helps! Stephanie & Co.
Hi Lisa, Do you mean to make them sit politely for leashes etc? They are pushy maniacs when it comes to going out. In fact, the shep/husk (11mos) has just started door dashing and our yard is not fenced. This is probably the one behaviour that has me most worried for obvious reasons.
You can teach them to sit quietly for leashes pretty much the same way you teach them to sit quietly to be fed. You just wait them out. When they're calm, you lean down to put on the leash. When they get up or get hyper, you stand up and look away. If you put the leash on a hyper dog and open the door, you've reinforced hyper behavior. It worked! He got to go on the walk. So make calm behavior and *only* calm behavior work.
Does anyone know if there's an article on teaching a dog to wait at doorways on the ClickerSolutions site? I think there is -- by Debi Davis. Check it out. It works!
I am worried however about the lack of space. i.e. how much can I teach. I want to have sits and downs from anywhere and without superstitious behaviours like coming around to the front before executing behaviour etc. How do you deal with this in a small space? I hope this is clear.
It's very clear -- and an excellent question. First, change rooms frequently. Change your gate arrangement to put the others in a different room. You can also change your position in the room -- don't forget to work on diagonals, not just squared up to the walls. You can change your body position -- do reps while you are standing, sitting, lying down, bending over, waving your hands, standing on one foot, etc. Intentionally work with the dog beside you, away from you, behind you. One way to work on distance is to use gates and such to keep your dog from coming to you initially.
Good luck!
Melissa Alexander http://www.clickersolutions.com
From ClickerSolutions:
Hi Marni,
I have an eight week program, first week no dogs. My orientation talk includes, among many other things, stressing the importance of constant supervision for pups and adolescent dogs. And I use my own demo-dog...usually Teacher but sometimes Bay... to show the students how, in the course of keeping the pup with them at all times, they can begin to lay the foundation for LLW with*out* the leash. Pup/dog must be encouraged to stay with you all the time anyway, as you move about the house... so while you're encouraging the dog to stay with you, use a toy or food (toy is usually adequate at home) to lure the dog along one (particular) side of you, walk with you... and the reward when you reach your destination is a quick game with the toy. With my dogs, this 'walk with me game' quickly became a ritual they enjoyed, that didn't need a toy or a lure, just a finger wiggle as cue... started building in sit when we stop, and I might stop several times before getting to the destination... and there was always something worthwhile at the destination. So right there I built a reward history for the behavior of 'walk with me' which, when taken 'on the road', didn't need AS high a rate of reinforcement as you'd typically need when you're trying to BUILD the behavior under high distraction (classroom). My students begin playing this game with their dogs right after orientation. In week two, we charge the clicker (I prefer that this be done while I'm watching... I've been amazed at the number of people who, left to their own devices, mess this part up), we work on attention, sit, stand,handling/massage (teaching dogs to accept familiar/invasive handling),taking treats gently, 'give it', and 'gotcha' (teaching them to accept/welcome having collar grasped). HW includes primarily attention, 25 sits a day building in life rewards to fade the food, and continue the 'walk with me' game. LLW is introduced in week three... I put all dogs on one side of the room and let the students try LLW on the OTHER side, one at a time, so as to minimize distraction for this first classroom experience. Everyone's done great with it, first time out!
Kim Burrell
From ClickerSolutions:
Dogs generally don't do as well in class due to all the distractions. Remember (and remind your mom!) that in class, you need to keep reinforcement rate high, which may mean relaxing your criteria. It is also a good idea to actively work on training the dog to pay attention to you in class. If you can't get the dog's attention away from the interesting dogs around her, you won't be able to accomplish much in class. When I take one of my own dogs to a class, teaching the dog to focus on me is my primary goal- all the rest is meaningless until that is accomplished!
Hope this helps!
Susan Mann, Tip Top Training Pepper, Scout, Brodie, and Kyp!
From ClickerSolutions
"Hi Sarah!
I do two things on walks to discourage sniffing. First I do use a happy "leave it, let's go!' if they start to sniff and keep moving briskly forward. After a few times when they have to hurry to keep up lagging behind isn't really an issue. Most dogs I know really want to stay ahead of the pack!
When they do catch up they get a verbal 'good!' and if they keep with me they get a treat - in the training stages anyway. These days they just get a 'good!'. Same thing if they see another dog across the street, a squirrel, or whatever. And if they do leave something really tempting we have a big party after we passed the obstacle. "What a good leave it! Who are the smartest dogs in the entire world? etc. etc. (treats for all)."
Second, we tend to use LLW when we're going 'fun' places. So if we're going on a walk we almost always go somewhere 'fun for dogs' where they can be offleash. So I think there's some major reinforcement for staying with me as well, as I think they know they'll get a chance to sniff and pee all they want in a little while..
One last thing, my dogs do 'sniff' when we're walking, but not so much as they stop the 'parade'.
Hope this helps.
Lindsay and All www.BrisbeeTheWhite.com"
What I learned about vitamin C today!
Message: 3 Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 02:37:15 -0000 From: "Mitch Kirby" < uf7r@icrossroads.com> Subject: Vit C Hello All, In case anyone was wondering how important Vit C is to our friends, please read, lengthly but worth it! An acquaintance of mine, B.J. Richardson, was calling from Texas, doubt and hope in his voice. "My English Pointer isn't a year old, and he's already lame in the rear end, especially the left hip," Richardson said. "The X-rays show hip dysplasia. The veterinarian says there are two choices: operate to alleviate the pain, or put the dog down. I can't afford one and won't do the other. Is it true that Vitamin C might help?" I had to say that I'd never heard of Vitamin C curing canine hip dysplasia, but I was aware that veterinarian Wendell Belsfield of San Jose, CA, did prevent CHD -- or least its symptoms -- in eight litters of German shepherds, a breed that is prone to crippling abnormal development of a dog's hip joints. In those instances, all of the dogs' parents had CHD or had previously whelped pups that became dysplastic. Belsfield gave the bitches Vitamin C throughout pregnancy and lactation. The pups received Vitamin C from weaning until they were two years old. None of the pups developed CHD during that entire period. Though Belsfield's work wasn't scientific in the strict sense, it certainly indicated that CHD could be prevented. Still I couldn't see how the joint could be remodeled once it had grown improperly, at least not without surgery. However, Vitamin C therapy seemed to be Richardson's only hope, so I told him what I knew. Many readers had written and told me that their arthritic dogs normally were laid up after a few hours in the field, but when given Vitamin C, they could hunt several days in a row. None had said they did it with dogs that had CHD, but maybe.... I also recalled reading about the efforts of Dr. Bob Cathcart, a medical doctor in California who championed the use of Vitamin C in curing a wide variety of joint ailments and illnesses. Much of his work centered around using the vitamin in large quantities, increasing the doses until the body reaches "bowel tolerances." Though Cathcart's work was with human patients, many veterinarians adopted his method, saying that Vitamin C should be given in increasing doses until the dog's stools loosen, at which point the dose should be backed off a half a gram or a gram at a time until the stools became firm again. At that point, the dog's body receives the maximum Vitamin C that it can utilize. I also understood that a superior form of the vitamin is Ester-C, which can be purchased in health food stores. The vitamin in Ester-C is molecularly locked to calcium, so it doesn't cause the acidity problems normally associated with ascorbic acid (the common form of Vitamin C), which can upset a dog's stomach. Ester-C also has natural C metabolites that get it into the cells faster and more effectively (common ascorbic acid is slower getting out of the blood serum, so it passes through the kidneys, where much of it is rapidly lost in the urine). Pinto's Rebound A month or two later, I heard that Pinto, Richardson's dog, had begun improving less than a week after receiving maximum doses of Ester-C. Pinto, the grandson of Miller's Chief -- an 11-time champion in horseback-style bird-dog trials -- was now running like the wind. I was as surprised as I was delighted. Two years later, I was in Texas and dropped in to see Pinto. Richardson had kept him on a maintenance dose of Ester-C. The dog was moving with a fluid grace and power in the hips. Twice, for a step or two, I saw a bunny hop, suggesting that not everything was 100 percent correct. But both times, Pinto immediately shifted back to a normal gait. I still couldn't understand how Ester-C could remodel a defective joint, but I was hopeful. Nobody I knew whose debilitated dog had improved clinically on Ester-C had ever taken X-rays of the joints, so I asked Richardson to have X-rays taken. He did and mailed me the original X-ray taken two years before and a new one. I showed both to Dianna K. Stuckey, a board certified radiologist in St. Louis, who looked at the original and pointed out the hip dysplasia with the left hip most severe. The second? "Arthritis that customarily follows hip dysplasia," she said. I explained Pinto's quick and lasting response to Ester- C. "How could this dog go from lame to moving freely, and apparently without pain, in a few days -- and stay that way without something improving in the joints?" "We occasionally see this," Stuckey said. "A dog is arthritic yet moves as if it feels no pain. We don't know why. Great 'heart' maybe, or high pain tolerance." Mystery Unfolds I'm sure that veterinarians do see this. But the answer to my question, Pinto's improvement was not because of great heart or high pain tolerance. He had been hurting and he had been limping badly. If his response to such pain improved in just a few days, something caused that change. Dr. Chuck Noonam of Weston, CT also compared the X-rays. He noticed slight improvement in the severity of the dysplasia but said the hip joint had clearly succumbed to degenerate arthritis from the dysplastic hip joint banging around in and out of the socket. "Eighty-three percent of dysplastic dogs either show an improvement in their hip dysplasia or they learn to deal with the problem as they grow older," Noonan said. "The second X-ray shows that the dysplasia is slightly less severe, but because of the arthritis, the joint is worse overall than in the earlier X-ray. It is possible that the Vitamin C was helping to sort of lubricate the joint so the dog felt less pain." In my investigations, I had found that Pinto's results from Ester-C weren't unique. Soon after Richardson first called, I received a letter from Steve Dudley of Arizona. His young black Lab, who showed great promise at hunting Gambel's quail, went lame with CHD. Dudley's vet suggested that Dudley replace the hip -- or expect to put the dog down by age four. Dudley tried Ester-C instead and the dog promptly improved. Kept on Ester-C, the dog lived until age 13 without showing signs of soreness, lameness, or unwillingness to hunt, Dudley wrote. Flood of Proof My investigation also led to Charles Docktor, an Arizona veterinarian who was the first to test Ester-C for its effectiveness in healing joint problems. In 1983, he used Ester-C on a large number of arthritic dogs, finding that 75 percent improved in various degrees in a short period of time. Independently, a continent away, Dr. Geir Erick Berge, a veterinarian in Oslo, Norway, performed a similar study, that was reported in the August-September 1990 issue of The Norwegian Veterinary Journal. Berge selected 100 dogs with a variety of joint ailments. His testing revealed that 75 percent of the dogs rapidly improved on Ester-C, some only slightly, some almost totally. Dr. Berge added that large amounts of Vitamin C metabolites, substances essential to a body's metabolic processes, are required in rebuilding diseased joint tissue. Corroborating data were also reported by Dr. N. Lee Newman, who conducted 18 months of clinical tests using Ester-C to combat degenerative joint disease in performance horses. She reported a remarkable 90 percent success rate, ranging from good to excellent. Furthermore, 80 percent of the improved horses remained sound after Ester-C was discontinued. Newman credited supplemental Ester-C with maintaining the integrity of collagen and connective tissue and with mobilizing white cells in the immune system, while deactivating free radicals that damage cell membranes. But other respected voices were making contradictory statements. The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Animal Health newsletter in May 1995 denied that Vitamin C was of any value for either preventing or treating skeletal diseases in dogs. "There have been absolutely no confirmed reports that Vitamin C is helpful in any such instances," the newsletter stated. It went on to theorize that supplemental Vitamin C has no value because dogs produce adequate amounts of the vitamin in their livers. But that reasoning is questionable. Vitamin C production varies from dog to dog, individual bodily needs vary, and circumstances -- health and environment -- vary enormously. "Adequate" in human medicine only means enough Vitamin C to prevent scurvy. What is adequate for a strict carnivore like a dog? And in any case, "adequate" should not be assumed to be a synonym for "optimum." This is where a Vitamin C standoff occurs, and getting people to change their scientific opinion is like asking them to change their religion. In Cornell's favor, the evidence that has existed supporting the use of Vitamin C on dysplastic dogs is heavily anecdotal. Even the various veterinarians' research that has been cited was actually efficacy tests -- that is, all of the dogs tested were given similar doses of the vitamin and no controlled comparisons were made. Efficacy testing strongly suggests conclusive evidence, but it does not provide scientific proof. The Acid Test But in 1994, veterinarian L. Philips Brown presented the results of scientifically acceptable "double-blind crossover" study on the effects of Vitamin C to a national conference on holistic veterinary medicine. Brown, the owner of the largest veterinary hospital on Cape Code for 22 years, tested Vitamin C on 50 dogs with serious joint problems. The dogs were among a population of more than 500 canines at a large animal sanctuary in Utah. It should be noted here that representatives of Inter-Cal, makers of Ester-C, specifically asked Brown to study the vitamin because they felt it could have a major role in the treatment of joint abnormalities. Dave Stenmoe, one of the representatives of the manufacturer, says "We told [Brown] not to take our word for anything." Just to keep an open mind and conduct a scientific comparison of Ester-C, ordinary Vitamin C, and a placebo. He finally agreed to do it. Brown, along with the Utah sanctuary's resident veterinarian, hand- picked the dogs with the worst cases of joint disease and placed them in five groups. After four weeks of testing, the supplements were withdrawn for three weeks. Then, each dog was crossed over to a different group and received another supplement for another four weeks. After yet another three-week layoff, 60 percent of the dogs were switched to a third supplement. The remaining 40 percent went back to whatever they were given during the first four weeks. At the end, mobility scores were calculated to determine the average for each of the five groups. The results were impressively in favor of Ester-C therapy. Seventy- eight percent of the dogs on 2,000mg of Ester-C experienced improved mobility within four or five days. The average improvement score was 1.52. About 60 percent of the improved dogs relapsed when Ester-C was discontinued, but the group that returned to Ester-C in the third phase then regained mobility. Handlers reported no negative side effects. On the low (850mg) dose of Ester-C, only 52 percent of the dogs improved, with an average score of 0.45. Obviously, size of dose was important. Of dogs receiving 2,000mg of Ester-C with extra minerals, 62 percent improved by an average score of 0.87. Why Ester-C without extra minerals had better results remains unknown. Ordinary Vitamin C improved 44 percent of the dogs, with a score of 0.67. As expected, no noticeable change occurred among dogs on the placebo. Not even the most dyed-in-the-wool skeptic can ignore the results of such a double-blind crossover study. But the success of Vitamin C in treating CHD can still be questioned, or even denied, because X-rays show that the joints remain loose or arthritis remains. Even Brown confirms that X-rays taken for his study reveal defective skeletal structures even after the Ester-C treatment. Soft Tissue Factor But those who see improvement with Ester-C are looking primarily at an animal's behavior -- they see an improved ability to function. How can both proponents and skeptics consider themselves correct? Perhaps by each being half right. A joint is not bone alone. Soft tissue -- cartilage and synovial membrane -- exist between bones to permit movement. If such tissue deteriorates, movement becomes more painful. Vitamin C is essential in the making and rebuilding of soft tissue because it promotes the growth of Collagen, a tough, stringy "mortar" that holds cells together. At the same time, the soft tissue also holds water, which maintains compression resistance to cushion the joint -- this is the "lubrication" described by Noonan in his assessment of Pinto's X- rays. In healthy cartilage, normal cell loss is balanced by the rebuilding of cells. Under diseased or inflammatory conditions, cell loss is excessive. In the case of a dog's hip joint, this can mean that adequate cushioning no longer exists. The high demand for Vitamin C may begin exceeding the amount made in the dog's liver, so deterioration continues. Or supplemented Vitamin C may turn the process around. Field experience, although still anecdotal, suggests that dogs on Ester-C lead full lives without terrible pain and debilitation. Ester-C may prove to be a wondrous holistic cure, but OUTDOOR LIFE cautions that it's too early to state definitively that Vitamin C can cure or rectify canine hip dysplasia. Some doctors contend that the treatment is merely a Band-Aid on a far more serious problem. We should add one point. Hip dysplasia is at least partially inheritable. And it is not a simple, single-gene defect. There is now concern that dysplastic dogs returned to mobility may also be returned to reproduction, which would further spread the malady. It is fair to say that there appears to be a great deal of hope for the benefits of Vitamin C, but before administering the vitamin to your dog, consult your veterinarian. And until more is known, don't breed that dog. I must add I use Cili Boa for a Vit C replacement, I feel it is much better but each to their own. Mitch
From: "G&B Gowan" <gowans@globalserve.net> To: "Jeanne Barrett" <jbarrett@nas.net> Subject: natural worm treatment Date: Sun, Apr 8, 2001, 9:25 AM
Subject: Natural parasite prevention/treatment
Last year, my dog had worms. I did a bunch of research, read all of the natural dog health books, and collected this list of prevention and treatment measures. I used only a few, and the worms were cleared up in a month (maybe sooner, but that's when I had the first fecal recheck, and another recheck in 6 weeks). Be careful with treatment - even natural wormers can be toxic if used too long or in too strong a dose:
Natural parasite prevention and remedies
Here are some things that you can occasionally put into the diet to prevent parasites taking up residence in your dog's digestive system. Then I'll list some things that can be used for infestation.
The BARF diet, when you make a mush of meat and vegetables, or ground raw meaty bones and vegetables, provides a nice "medium" to add these ingredients. My dog will even eat up the capsules without any disguise, if they are sufficiently submerged into the raw food.
The BARF diet itself goes a long way in discouraging parasites because of the lack of grains (which turn to sugar, which encourages parasites) and the presence of enzymes which are caustic to parasites. The BARF diet enhances immune system functioning, and a healthy immune system can be an effective weapon against parasites in and of itself.
Prevention - regular dietary components
1. Fresh or kyolic garlic - has natural antibiotic properties, along with anti-worm properties. Only 1 clove of garlic per day, or 1 capsule of kyolic garlic.
2. Parsley tea - put one bunch of fresh parsley in one quart purified water, bring to a boil, simmer for 3 minutes. Let cool. Throw out parsley. Give one tablespoon of parsley water per day, or several times per week (Make ice cubes for easy storage). Warming up the ice cube and mixing into the food is a nice way to bring refrigerated BARF up to room temperature.
3. Fresh ground Pumpkin seeds - effective against tape worm. Best to grind the seeds right before serving - 1 tsp to 1 TBSP per day. I grind up the seeds and mix up with my BARF mush and immediately freeze the food.
4. Cod Liver Oil - high in vitamin A. Vitamin. A deficiency can allow infestation in an otherwise immune-healthy animal. 1/2 - 1 tsp daily. Usually, BARFed dogs don't have a vitamin A deficiency.
5. Roughage - in the BARF diet, we feed a combo of veggies pulped very finely so that the dog can absorb the nutrition from the vegetables. But, we can also coarsely chop hard vegetables like carrots and turnips (the size of peas) and mix that in with the food. Because these hard vegetables are left large, they won't be digested, therefore, no calories or nutrition will be absorbed, so they won't upset the nutritional and pH balance in the food.
However, left in large dice, they act like a broom, helping to scrape the parasite-housing mucus off of the intestinal walls. You will see the carrots out in the yard in basically the same size and shape as they went in, hopefully, with some mucus, occasionally.
This is also an effective weight-loss trick, adding safe but indigestible bulk into the food so the dog feels like it's eaten more, while not allowing it to absorb the calories in the large-dice vegetables. Putting in some coarse vegetables also makes the whole texture of the food chunkier, so it's easier to disguise supplement capsules. Not having to open up your capsules helps to make the food taste better.
If the dog objects to large dice vegetables, start by adding carrots (they're sweet, so most dogs will accept them) in very small dice. Increase the size of the dice over time, and start adding other veggies. My dog likes diced veggies as treats, now that she's so used to them.
6. Wheat germ oil - a tapeworm inhibitor. 1/2 - 1 tsp per day.
7. Supplemental enzymes - enzymes are caustic to the outer coating of worms, and make them weaken and give up their hold in the intestinesOne dried (organic, unsulphured) fig per day provides ficin and is tasty treat. Papain is found in papaya, often found in digestive enzyme complexes. Bromelain takes a machete to the outer "skin" of worms (including e-coli bacteria). Apple Cider Vinegar (organic, with the mother) is also a good source of enzymes and is slightly anti-bacterial - 1 tsp - 1 TBSP per day (or to the dog's taste - mine will allow only 1 tsp, at the most.
8. Aloe Vera gel - 1 tsp to 1 TBSP several times per week. Gently sloughs the parasites off of the intestinal walls. Be careful with dosage - can cause diarrhea.
10. Probiotics, or "intestinally friendly bacteria" eat the outer coating of the worm. Get non-dairy Acidophilus/Bifidus, add 1capsule to each meal. The value of probiotics extends well beyond parasite prevention - it aids digestion and absorption of nutrients in general. Probiotics are found naturally in Kefir, which is a fermented milk product which contains over 20 different active cultures, and certain brands of organic plain yogurt provide up to 6 or 7 different cultures. Average national brand plain yogurt in the dairy case is virtually worthless and provides only minimal nutrition. Check the packaging for the kinds of active cultures. Give culture-rich foods 15 - 30 minutes prior to meals.
11. MSM - in addition to helping with osteo and inflammatory conditions, MSM is natural sulphur, which is unfriendly to parasites.
12. Fasting - in the BARF diet, many of us fast one day per week. Fasting weakens the parasites. I feed home made, onion-free chicken broth heavy with fresh garlic on that day. Putting all of the above dietary components into the very next real meal will attack remaining parasites that have weakened during the fast, but are still hanging about.
Treatment
A word of caution. Do not try ALL of the things listed below at once! That would be very taxing to the body and you may cause liver damage. But you could try ONE thing at a time, for 1 week, ease back into "prevention" mode above for 3 weeks, and have another fecal check to determine if your treatment has worked. Of course, doing any of the below under the direction of a holistic/homeopathic vet would be best.
In addition to the "prevention" substances above, chose ONE for only a week at a time:
1. Black Walnut hulls (1 capsule per day) or Black Walnut Hull tincture (1 drop per day)
2. Wormwood (1 capsule per day) or Wormwood Tincture (1 drop per day). That's Artemesia Absinthum
3. Ground cloves - 1 capsule per day. Must get it at a reliable health food store/mail order to ensure freshness.
4. Grapefruit Seed Extract, or Agrisept - a natural antibacterial. One drop per day. (you can make a dilution of 10 drops to 1 pint of purified water, and give 1 tsp. of this dilution on a daily basis as prevention, also).
5. Homeopathic remedies - Cina (wormseed) and Filis Mas (male fern)
6. Herbal wormers - avoid any with onion (heinz body poisioning). Two that I know of available in the US are Paratox and Herbal Pumpkin. These each contain a collection of herbs, some designed for killing the parasites, and some designed for flushing out the intestines. Be very careful with these - certainly no more than 1 per day for 1 week. Retest in 3 weeks.
7. Fasting - a broth fast for one day helps weaken worms. Give a few senna pods as a laxative during a fast to completely clean out the intestines. In the next full meal, add a lot of the coarsely chopped vegetables to scrape any mucus from the intestine walls - mucus provides a safe "house" for parasites.
8. Yucca shigedera - powdered yucca root is a natural cleansing agent, containing saponins (soap precursors). It is very effective in treating coccidia. Add ½ tsp. to meals, gradually increasing to up to 1 TBSP per day for 1-2 weeks. Be careful, as it is a soap-like substance and can cause stomach cramps. Yucca is also an anti-inflammatory and helps with arthritis.
Worms seem to like foods like fats, sugars (which means grains and fruits), eggs, and whole milk, so make sure to exclude these foods when trying to get rid of worms. Reintroduce eggs, fats and fruits after you are sure the worms are gone for good. It is best to worm your animals wait 3 weeks and test for worms again, as some worms may hang on. The animals can then be treated again if need be.
Juliette Di Baircly Levy likes to point out that low levels of worm infestation (showing up positive in the fecal exam, but not resulting in any symptoms like diarrhea and vomiting) SHOULD be treated by herbal and nutritional means as gently as possible, but that we shouldn't get tremendously upset about them. It is far worse to "bomb" the system with conventional treatments and toxic chemicals (and any of the "treatments" I list above can become toxic if given in large dosages or for too long), than to just go along with a low concentration, provided there are no symptoms. So, if you have only a low-level infestation, time is on your side. You can try one treatment, rest, retest, and then repeat the cycle as needed, to get rid of worms safely and effectively.
Most animals get worms at some point in their lives. The key to successfully getting rid of worms and preventing their return is a healthy immune system.
Message: 4 Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 20:39:03 -0700 From: "Carla Baker - A to Z Dalmatians" < AtoZDals@scattercreek.com> Subject: OFF TOPIC: New Training Methods Liquor Training Now clicker training's quite the fad. Results from some are not too bad. The concept stemmed from Pavlov's hound Responding to some special sound. The dog would start to salivate Before he got the food he ate. The modern click does much the same. Enhancing our dog-training game By causing Fido's hopes to raise-- Anticipating treats or praise. Sometimes you click to no avail, And other methods also fail. No matter how you plead or shout, Sometimes the dog just won't put out When asked to sit or heel or stay, Thus giving you a rotten day. It makes you feel quite like a fool, And then you start to lose your cool. But if your methods fail for you. There's something else that you can do. Try "liquor training", that's its name, To help you with your dog-sport game. "How does this method work?" you ask Well, first you get a little flask Containing gin or other booze Of any kind that you may choose. Each time your dog decides to goof, You take a sip of 80 proof. It helps the handler to relax And minimize the stress attacks. When handler's mood is more at ease, The dog may sometimes try to please, Or, then again may still refuse To mind his training P's and Q's. But whether foul results or fair You liquor train -- you just don't care. Author Unknown Message: 1 Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 22:08:28 EDT From: Zenasmom@aol.comSubject: Re: Mental development In a message dated 9/4/02 3:16:13 PM, mcalex@attbi.com writes: << As I watched this, I started thinking about our dogs. Is it fair to say they develop the same skills (on an adjusted scale)? If so, how does that relate to our training of them and their ability to master and generalize? How (and when) do we teach these skills? What about dogs who *don't* learn these skills when they should? Melissa Alexander >> Melissa, One of the most valuable classes I took in graduate school was taught by a woman who specialized in adolescence -- she talked at length and with great insight and professional research and practical experience about the developmental milestones that people go through to achieve adulthood and IF they don't go through the develomental stages during the chronological development they will not mature and be an adult unless and until they do. This why I'm sure we can all think of people who are ostensibly chronological adults but act more like adolescents...they likely never went through the significant developmental stages at the right time. I truly believe as a lifelong observer and now full time trainer of dogs that if dogs miss the crucial information in proper socialization relevant during their early adolescent social/emotional development, they're very likely if not absolutely going to be socially/emotionally "retarded". Maybe they can be rehabbed through great effort and/or simply managed to not be social and therefore "safe" or they "screw up" (it's us screwing them up, but what are semantics in a place like this?) and get thrown away, taken to the proverbial farm, end up in rescue, or get somehow somewhere else. I so respect clients I know who have knowingly taken in dogs with social/emotional neglect baggage and are committed to working with them and really making great strides. I know as a mother of three young girls I cannot nor would I ever risk bringing in an animal that doesn't have at the very least great potential for working out acceptably in my household with my chaos. The three dogs I have now are all great with my kids and their friends as well as the now 16 rescue kittens on my porch. Absolutely must be. So I use my knowledge base and intuition to evaluate for dogs with the greatest likelihood to succeed. If/when I don't, and I have made poor choices, I take the responsibility and find appropriate homes. I'm happy to say the matches I've made have all worked out very very well. Then of course there are the dogs from well bred litters and everything is right on the money as far as socialization, diet, interaction, training, that just have some glitch in their wiring that make them untenable as stable pets. That too happens in human development. Something went wrong in the kitchen when the soup was being made. The whole topic of social/emotional not to mention physical development absolutely fascinates me. Thanks for bringing up an interesting topic. Regards, Rachel Friedman, MSW, LISW A Better Pet LLC www.abetterpet.com zenasmom@aol.comCleveland, Ohio |